Guatemala : $b the land of the quetzal; a sketchBrigham, William Tufts
History
Guatemala : $b the land of the quetzal; a sketch
Brigham, William Tufts
Central America -- Bibliography; Guatemala -- Antiquities; Guatemala -- Description and travel
We passed another night when the torrents of rain had no effect on the
myriads of mosquitoes and black-flies. Still all the brooks ran inland,
although, as we afterwards learned, in the dry season these banks are so
high above the water that they are hard to climb. All day long we saw
monkeys along the banks, though high above us, and the following night we
heard the howlers; but in compensation for that evil had no mosquitoes.
By Saturday (Nov. 3, 1883) we hoped to be well on our road from Pansos
to Coban, but, except the cayuco, we saw no signs of men or the work of
men’s hands; on that morning, however, we came to a little _finca_ on the
river bank, where a good sized stream from the river flowed into the
yard and through the house. The poultry had taken refuge on the roof,
and the Indian proprietors waded through the flood. Luckily the oven, or
fire-place, was raised on sticks several feet above the water, so that
the señora could make us some tortillas,—eight for a real. Eggs were the
same price. Slight as the forage was, it was very acceptable, as our food
was nearly gone, and we were already dependent on the Caribs for their
cassava-bread. The river, these persons said, was falling, so we pushed
on with new courage.
A fine spider-lily (_Crinum_) grew on the bank where we moored our
canoa. We noticed that whenever we made fast to the cane-brake, the
black-flies bothered us far more than when we had trees overhead; was
it not because the cane did not afford roosts or concealment for the
fly-catching birds and reptiles? The blossoms of the cane were very
beautiful, indeed as attractive as those we had noticed on the Chocon.
Mahogany-trees were seen here and there, and we were told that there
was much of this fine wood on the Rio Zarco, just at hand. I also saw
a goyava-tree, some eighteen inches in diameter and eighty feet high.
In the afternoon we passed willows (_Sauce_), and about five o’clock
were startled by an unusual noise behind us, when a huge three-storied
structure came sweeping up the stream, as if in pursuit; it was the
steamer “City of Belize,” a flat-bottomed stern-wheeler. As the current
was very strong and the channel narrow, we hastened to make fast to a
large fig-tree overhanging the stream. Before, however, our arrangements
were made, the steamer was upon us, and her surge, added to the current,
tore us from our mooring and swept us under the tree. Our masts caught
in a branch, and we were turned on our beam-ends. For an instant our
situation was critical. Our weather-rail was six inches under water, and
we were clinging to the other side as the water came pouring in; then the
mainmast slipped, and we righted, all hands bailing out eagerly, while
Frank held by some branches and prevented a repetition of the disaster.
If the canoa had upset, our journey would probably have ended there, as
our photographic supplies would have been ruined, and there would have
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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