Guatemala : $b the land of the quetzal; a sketchBrigham, William Tufts
History
Guatemala : $b the land of the quetzal; a sketch
Brigham, William Tufts
Central America -- Bibliography; Guatemala -- Antiquities; Guatemala -- Description and travel
We crossed two _aguas calientes_. One of them was steaming in the cool
morning air; but their temperature was very little above that of the
atmosphere at midday. Cacao-trees were very common, though we saw none
cultivated. Here we first saw in abundance some of the convolvulus
blossoms for which the country is noted. One was of a pale rose, another
a deep blue, with hispid calyx and a corolla five inches across, while
a third was of flesh-color and satiny texture, covering the trees near
La Tinta. We arrived in that village about noon, and after some delay
found a house where they would cook us an almuerzo. Our _menu_ comprised
good white rolls, broiled meat, fried plantains, frijoles, fried eggs,
and good coffee,—all which we relished exceedingly; and we were not less
satisfied with the price,—two reals each. The house contained only one
room, a stone cooking-bench[11] at one end, and a row of box-like beds
along one side. Under these several hens were sitting, and two or three
dogs tried hard to get into a bed, while a colt kept putting his head
into a window, and finally upset the corn-box. There was not much to the
town, certainly. The school had thirteen pupils,—some bright enough; but
the church was an insignificant shed. Pasturage was good, and we noticed
a very large proportion of bulls by the roadside; these were quite as
gentle as the cows.
In the afternoon we crossed, on an iron truss-bridge covered with a
thatched roof, the Polochic, now a shallow but still wide stream. I
wished for my camera here,—as I had several times since I left Pansos;
but we were effectually parted until our mozos should overtake us at
Coban. We had been assured by the blind ladinos that there was no
interesting scenery on the road. We were now constantly ascending, and
we passed many Indios of the Poconchi tribe,—clean, good-looking, and
dressed in white, with fanciful designs of darker colors sewed on.
We arrived at Chamiquin early in the afternoon, and found the hamlet
consisted, as far as we could see, of two very inferior houses and as
many sheds. A fine grove of mango-trees, but no fruit; a hen-house
built in the second story only, and accessible by ladder; palms, with
the withered leaves still clinging to the stem (cultivated for the
nuts, but dreary looking); limestone cropping out on the neighboring
hills,—comprised the distinctive features of the place. Our room was
new and clean, lined with banana-leaves, and the hard earth floor was
of course uncarpeted. The furniture was simply a table and a bench; but
frugal as the furnishing was, our dinner surpassed it,—a few tortillas,
four eggs, and some nasty coffee for two hungry men! We had our own
candles, or we might not have seen how little it was. Perhaps our hostess
did as well as she could, for the twenty-five dogs that besieged our room
while we ate were evidently half starved.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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