Art -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- History
And as in the case of the great churches, so in that of the small, from
Braisne to Caudebec, they cannot even be catalogued. The whole region
was, and is, one of wonderful little parish churches, of all periods,
and many of them are now only shapeless ruins. The great abbeys and
smaller religious houses are practically gone, scores having fallen prey
to the insane fury of the Revolution or the sordid secularism of the
Restoration. What we have lost may be seen from countless such lovely
and pathetic fragments as St. Wandrille, near Caudebec, given a new fame
through the name of Maeterlinck, and so linked with the greater
martyrdom of Belgium in these last days. This, like its myriad
companions, was architecture of the most singular beauty, the loss of
which leaves the world poor, so poor, indeed, that it had at first
nothing wherewith to meet the last assault of the enemy. The loss is
being made good, the penalty already is paid, and though one could
not--one would not--restore or rebuild these silent fragments of
exquisitely wrought stone, meshed in tall trees and clambering vines,
the vision is possible of new foundations, equal in number to these that
are gone, each an expiation and a spiritual guard, each making late
reparation for the past, guaranteeing a future immunity from perils of
the same nature as those that now shake the world.
VI
AMIENS AND REIMS
Two monuments there are to the east of the Seine that form the
realisation of the dim but dominant ideal toward which Christian society
in France was tending even from the days of St. Germer and Jumièges,
through the intermediate and progressive steps of Noyon, Soissons,
Laon-Amiens, and Reims. Equal in fame, counting no others in their own
category save only Chartres and Bourges, the one remains, the other has
passed for ever.
It is a strange sensation for us to-day to watch from afar the slow and
implacable destruction of one of the greatest works of art in the world,
for we must go back more than a century to find any catastrophe of a
similar nature. What happened then, when half a hundred masterpieces of
divinely directed human intelligence and aspiration were reduced to
scrap-heaps at the hands of revolution, is very far away, and the
irreparable loss is as unknown to-day as it was unappreciated then. We
can no more reconstruct for our understanding Cluny, St. Martin of
Tours, or Avranches than we can restore the catalogue of the Alexandrian
library; mercifully we cannot estimate our loss. Back of this era of
annihilation we must go two centuries before we find in England under
Henry VIII a similar episode of infamy. The case of Reims is wholly
different; there are tens of thousands who knew it for what it was--the
crowning manifestation of a crowning civilisation, and for them the loss
is personal, poignant, and unexampled, a horror that sophistry cannot
palliate nor time destroy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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