Art -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- History
If one only knew how to interpret it, there is some mysterious
significance in the centring of the war of the world around Reims and in
the persistent and successful efforts of the Prussians to raze it to the
ground. Seven centuries ago the mystics of St. Victor would have read
the riddle, but for too long now we have been out of temper with
symbolism and too averse to the acceptance of signs and portents to be
able to see even dimly the correspondences and the significance of those
human happenings that are actually outside human control. In a way Reims
was the ancient heart of France, as Paris is not, and it always was a
sacred city above all others--and sacred it is now as never before. It
was here that the Christianising of the Franks was sealed by the baptism
of Clovis, A. D. 496, by St. Remi, the canonised bishop who occupied the
see for seventy-five years. The crowning of kings (every sovereign but
four for a period of fifteen hundred years came here for his
coronation), the assembling of great councils of the Church, the
beneficent activities of universities and schools of philosophy were
all commonplaces of the life of the city, while it was here that Ste.
Jeanne d’Arc finally discomfited the English and led her King to his
crowning in the church that is now destroyed.
Time and again the city has been devastated, from the Vandals of 392 to
those of 1914. During the Revolution its churches suffered bitterly; the
cathedral and St. Remi, until then, were rich with unnumbered shrines,
altars, statues, tombs, while cloisters and religious buildings of many
kinds surrounded them on all sides. All this wealth of hoarded art that
expressed the piety and culture of centuries was swept away, even to the
sacred ampulla of holy oil, piously believed to have been brought by a
dove for the consecration of Clovis and ever after miraculously
replenished for each succeeding coronation. To this irreparable
devastation was added the indignity of official “restoration,” though in
the case of the cathedral at the able and scrupulous hands of
Viollet-le-Duc, and in the nineteenth century the picturesque and
beautiful old streets gave place to boulevards and a general
Hausmanising on approved Parisian lines, so that in 1914 the city had
become dull and somewhat pretentious, framing the two priceless jewels,
the Church of Our Lady of Reims and that of the holy St. Remi.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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