Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
_May 3rd._--We are going to Richmond to-day. In the first or original
"programme" (a word which is spelt by Americans without the final
"me," and, as it strikes me, correctly, if "telegram" be proper) the
excursion on which the party started at 9 A.M. this morning was not
included. However they were impressed with some of the reasons which
were suggested for devoting one day to a Southern City which has
especial claims to the consideration of Englishmen in the antecedents
of the State of which it is the capital. At the outset of the war, the
name became the watchword of the North, "On to Richmond!" was the cry.
How it rung in one's ears in Washington that fervent summer of 1861!
How it met the eye in broad type at the head of every leading article!
It was as the "_à Berlin!_" of the Paris mob in 1870. For a time it
seemed as though the answer might be given by the sound of the enemy's
guns at Baltimore, Philadelphia or New York. From Washington to
Richmond is only 116 miles. The road was barred for four years by the
genius of Lee, the skill of his generals, and the fiery valour of the
South. It would perhaps be ungenerous and unjust to say that the
ineptitude of the North entered for something into the estimate of the
causes which impeded the march of the Federal armies till Grant
"whittled away" the life of his opponents. My friends had none of
these recollection to distract their minds from the contemplation of
the present.
And this is Washington? How strange it all seems to one like myself,
whose latest memories of the city which has expanded into such placid
beauty teem with vision of vast camps--the march of serried
battalions--the roll of artillery--the circumstance and pride,
without the pomp, of war--the passion and fury of civil strife--the
agony of a nation--to see it now staid and stately and calm as some
lake which rests in the embrace of the mountain shores after the
subsidence of the storm! Down Pennsylvania Avenue I have seen in full
flow a river of sparkling bayonet waves, and have heard the refrain of
"John Brown's body lies mouldering in the grave" pealing from myriads
of lips, where now the bourgeois 'bus rolls over the asphalte, and the
greatest excitement is a pair of fast trotters behind the vehicle of
some well-to-do legislator on his way to or from the Capitol. There
was a special train at "the Depôt" at 10 o'clock A.M.--palace
cars--our ever-obliging, smiling, active attendants--the usual
official courtesies--giant bouquets on the tables, and all the luxury
of the road which Presidents and directors' friends enjoy in the
Republic of Railroads. The old Long Bridge over which I rode the night
of Bull Bun, bringing the news of the defeat to Lord Lyons at the
British Legation, has been removed, and the Baltimore and Potomac
Railway is carried across the Potomac on a more recent structure
rejoicing in the old name. How could I expect my companions to be much
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