Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
Colorado Springs, forty-five miles from Pueblo, is nearly 6000 feet
above the level of the sea. The character of the line to it is best
described in the fact that the average grade per mile is 44·14, the
maximum curvature 6°. There are "no Springs" here, but the little town,
charmingly situated, is a halting-place much frequented in tourist-time
by travellers, and reputed to be healthful. There are some pleasant
houses visible from the station, at which we descended to take our
places in the carriages provided to take us to Manitou Springs, five
miles away. Mr. Palmer--if General, I beg his pardon--the President of
the Railroad, had important business to attend to, but he was so well
represented by Mr. Bell, the Vice-President, that no one regretted his
absence, and it cannot be said in his case _les absents ont toujours
tort_. He is reported to have made a very large fortune with much
ingenuity, and to have business talents which even in this country
excite admiration. Mr. Bell is an Irish gentleman, a member of the
medical profession, who has a delightful villa embowered in a garden
in the environs of Manitou, where the Duke and his friends found a
charming interior and an Irish-American welcome, and discovered that
strawberries and cream were almost as good in Colorado as in Covent
Garden. A quaint, odd place, Manitou--an American Martigny, with
Pike's Peak rising (14,300 feet above the sea) over it in the clear
sky, inspiring regret that we could not make the excursion to the
summit, which is rewarded, we were told, and I can believe, by one of
the grandest views in the world--the usual service of guides, horses,
and mules, and _calèches_--a naturalist's store with skins, minerals,
feathers, and stuffed "objects"--detached wooden houses and villas
in small plots of garden--a straggling street, and large hotels for
invalids. But there was the unusual feature of encampments here and
there by the roadside, and notices forbidding the pitching of tents
within certain limits which were explained by the fact that the high
reputation of the waters and air induces people to come from great
distances for the treatment of consumption, and diseases of throat and
lungs. Many of them find it cheaper to travel in horse waggons and
pitch their canvas dwellings when they wish to make a halt, than to
take up their quarters at hotels. Poor people! what pale, hectic cheeks
and wasted forms we saw; little groups picnicking by the sides of the
rivulets along the roads--each with a gnawing care--anxiety about some
dear one's health in the midst of them. Our driver, an intelligent,
chatty lad, was full of information, and we had to drive the prescribed
road by the wells out to the Ute Pass, a mountain-gorge wild enough--a
small _Tête Noire_--to points to which magniloquent names have been
given.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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