Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
The interest which the progress of Colorado and the condition of
society in the State excite was exemplified by the appearance in
Denver of a party of Hungarian noblemen, whose names gave occasion
for stumbling to the journalists who copied them out of the Hotel
Register--Count Andrassy and others, who were travelling under the
guidance of Dr. Rudolf Meyer, of Vienna. Although the air of Denver
is so much bepraised, it happens that most of our party felt rather
overcome at the end of our excursion through the town and the visit
to the smelting works, and one of the Hungarians was confined to his
room. However, they sallied out before dinner, and a gloomy prophet
of evil remarked, "If these strangers should have a difficulty, I
consider they'll hev only theirselves to blame. Some citizens don't
like strangers comin' in and starin' at them, and they're apt to be
awkward in their tempers in the afternoon." Knowing no danger, and
fearing none, they went off, and were a long time absent. Meantime we
were preparing for the road, as we were bound for Leadville, the city
of the "biggest boom" of mining times--"the Silver El Dorado," as the
guide-book, with a magnificent "bull," describes it. Our Hungarian
friends returned to the hotel ere we left. They were filled with
enthusiasm, and with a good deal also of curiosity in regard to the
shootings of which they had heard so much, and were following in our
track next day, and so we parted _sans adieux_. How the love of gold
has filled these lone valleys with desperate men! "They are a rough
lot, sure enough," said the landlord, "but lynching keeps them down;
and it is much better than hanging according to law, to my mind. It
certainly is cheaper." "How is it cheaper?" "Why," said he, "when a man
is prosecuted, or when he is tried before the judges, the law expenses
are heavy, and they fall on the county. When a man is lynched there is
only the expense of the rope, and a little loss of time for the boys
who do the job." From Denver to Pueblo and from Pueblo to Leadville
the line is on the narrow-gauge principle, and our train, which left
at seven o'clock in the evening, seemed to be driven on no principle at
all; for, anxious to astonish a Duke perhaps, or Britishers generally,
the driver did what certainly could not be called his level best to
send us along up and down a very rough line, and round the sharpest
curves, at the rate of forty miles an hour, so that when we turned
in, our rest, if rest at all it were, was exceedingly broken, and
we trundled about in our berths as if we were in a ship in a pretty
heavy sea. Still this narrow-gauge was the only line which could be
made through such a country as we were traversing. Peeps out of the
window ever and anon revealed, high up amongst the stars, rugged
mountain-tops, and for ever there came the sound of rushing water,
near or remote, as the train "bounded" on its course. I do not know
what stations we passed on our way, but the night was very long, and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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