[Illustration: THE _KIMONO_, REAR AND FRONT VIEW.]
These dresses can be taken to pieces and remade so long as the cloth
is not worn out; and as they can be made to fit most persons by
judicious tucking in or letting out, they are often washed and remade
for others than the original wearer. As the maximum length of the body
pieces is about ten feet, a cloth of the usual length would be too
short for those who measure more than four feet ten or eleven inches
from the nape of the neck to the ankles. A spare person, five feet
eight inches in height, might just manage to make himself a dress out
of a cloth of the usual length; but a man of a greater stature or of
the same height with more flesh would have to get a cloth specially
woven for him or buy a double length. Moreover, if a cloth is too
short for the height, it would also be in all probability too narrow
for the sleeves, which would then require a strip to be sewn on to
cover the arms.
The unlined dress of coarse bleached cotton, known as _yukata_ or
bath-dress, is the simplest and most comfortable for summer wear. It
is worn immediately next to the skin without underwear of any
kind, and is washed whole every few days in midsummer. It is commonly
white or blue with stripes, spots, or other simple designs. If the
dress is of silk, hemp, or of a better kind of cotton, an underwear of
bleached cotton is put on. This resembles the _kimono_ in form, only
that it is much shorter, coming down only to the thighs, and has open
sleeves and no gores. The unlined _kimono_ is worn when one goes out
in summer; the _yukata_ is mostly for home wear or put on for a walk
in the evening. The unlined clothes are worn through midsummer from
the middle of June until the latter half of September.
The lined _kimono_ differs from the unlined in having a lining, which
is usually of dark-blue silk or cotton. The lining is first made
separately from the covering, and its pieces, which are similar to
those of the other with a slight shrinkage in the measurement to allow
for its being the inner side, are stitched together, except at the
edges of the sleeves, skirt, gores, and the inner border of the body
pieces, which are sewn on to the corresponding parts of the outer
cloth. The band of the latter covers both cloths; and at the opening
of the sleeves a stiff piece of cloth trims the edges as that part
is apt to be rapidly worn out from the movement of the wrist. The
underwear is the same as in the case of the unlined _kimono_. The
lined _kimono_ is worn for a shorter time than the unlined, in fact,
for about a month at the transition from the unlined _kimono_ to the
wadded and _vice-versa_. The lined _kimono_ was not recognised by
the old-time etiquette which did not sanction any intermediate dress
between the unlined and the wadded; but of its comfort as a
_demi-saison_ costume there can be no question.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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