Hogs weighing from 150 to 200 pounds are the most suitable size for
family use. They should not exceed twelve months in age, as they are
much more tender from being young. They should be well kept and should
be corn-fed several weeks before being killed. After being properly
dressed, they should hang long enough to get rid of the animal heat.
When they are ready to be cut up, they should be divided into nine
principal parts, two hams, two shoulders, two middlings, the head or
face, jowl and chine. The hog is laid on its back to be cut up. The
head is cut off just below the ears, then it is split down on each
side of the backbone, which is the chine. This is divided into three
pieces, the upper portion being a choice piece to be eaten cold. The
fat portion may be cut off to make lard. Each half should then first
have the leaf fat taken out, which is done by cutting the thin skin
between it and the ribs, when it is easily pulled out. Just under
this, the next thing to be removed is the mousepiece or tenderloin,
lying along the edge, from which the backbone was removed, commencing
at the point of the ham. This is considered the most delicate part and
is used to make the nicest sausage. Just under this tenderloin are
some short ribs about three inches long, running up from the point of
the ham which are known as the griskin. This is removed by a sharp
knife being run under it, taking care to cut it smooth and not too
thick. When broiled, it is as nice as a partridge.
The ribs are next taken out of the shoulder and middling, though some
persons prefer leaving them in the middling. In this case seven should
be taken from the shoulder, by a sharp knife cutting close to the
ribs, which make a delicious broil. Then cut off the ham as near the
bone as possible, in a half circle. The shoulder is then cut square
across just behind the leg. The feet are then chopped off with a sharp
axe or cleaver. From the shoulder, they should be cut off leaving a
stump of about two inches. From the ham, they should be cut off at the
joint, as smoothly as possible, and then you may proceed to salt the
meat.
In order to impart redness to the hams, rub on each a teaspoonful of
pulverized saltpetre before salting. If the weather is very cold, warm
the salt before applying it. First rub the skin side well with salt
and then the fleshy side, using for the purpose a shoe-sole or leather
glove. No more salt should be used than a sufficiency to preserve the
meat, as an excess hardens the meat. A bushel of salt is sufficient
for a thousand pounds of meat. For the chine and ribs a very light
sprinkling of salt will suffice.
The meat as salted should be packed with the skin side down, where it
should remain from four to six weeks, according to the weather. If the
weather is mild, four weeks will answer. Should the weather be very
cold and the pork in an exposed place, it will freeze, and the salt,
failing to penetrate the meat, will be apt to injure it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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