This should be grown by every gardener on account of its usefulness, both for seasoning and garnishing. As it seeds in the second season, fresh plantings should be made every spring. The seed, being very slow to germinate, should be soaked in tepid water for twenty-four hours before planting. The best way is to sow in the hotbed or cold frame and transplant to the garden, but it can be sown in drills where wanted and thinned out to the proper distance apart. I always try to have a bed of it near the kitchen door, as it saves much running; if such a bed cannot be conveniently placed, some should be cut and brought in with the other vegetables, as it will keep fresh some days if kept in cold water. In the fall some of the best roots should be taken up and planted in the cold frame, or put in pots and boxes in the sunny windows of the house, for a winter supply. The leaves and tops from trimming the celery are also very fine for flavoring. [Illustration: EXTRA CURLED DWARF PARSLEY.] The EXTRA CURLED DWARF is so much finer and handsomer than the other kinds that it should be the only one grown. PARSNIPS. This is a winter vegetable, needing hard freezing to refine and bring out its best quality; the roots should be left to stand where grown until they can be dug in the spring or through the winter as wanted, though some may be dug and stored in heaps for use when the ground is frozen too solidly to admit of digging them. If there is more than are wanted for table use, there should be no delay in getting them dug and marketed as early in the spring as possible, for when they begin to sprout and grow, they very soon become woody and unfit to eat. A row should be sown in the garden at the same time as the onions, beets, etc., are planted. It is best to sow the seed quite thickly; by thickly I mean one seed every inch or so; when the young plants are about three inches high they should be thinned out to six inches apart in the row, care being taken to leave only one plant in a place, as, if two are left, they will spoil the symmetrical shape of the roots by growing against each other. In planting the seed I always try to run it in between two rows of beets, onions, lettuce, or other early crop, thus working it with the wheel hoe while small, and when the other crops have been taken off there is room to work it with the cultivator, which is run as close to the rows and as deeply as possible, so that the roots may attain the largest size. In digging the roots when the ground is frozen hard and is impenetrable to the spade, I use a long iron post digger with a steel blade. [Illustration: IMPROVED GUERNSEY PARSNIP.] VARIETIES OF PARSNIPS.