In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the SaharaPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
In Barbary : $b Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco and the Sahara
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
Africa, North -- Description and travel
The principal state apartments of the Bardo are the Throne Room, the
Hall of Justice, and the Salle des Glaces, so named, I suppose, from its
mammoth crystal chandeliers. The last named is just such a room as may
be found in almost any European palace, the walls lined with life-size
paintings of Louis Philippe, Napoleon III, Victor Emmanuel of Italy—the
first of the name, I mean—an incredibly ugly man with a pug-nose and
enormous mustachios, Francis Joseph as a youth in a white uniform so
tight at the waist as to suggest the use of corsets, and, of course,
a whole portrait-gallery of the beys who have reigned in Tunisia ever
since the Cretan adventurer, Hussein ben Ali, made himself master of the
country at the beginning of the eighteenth century. The pictures of the
present bey, Sidi Mohamed el Habib, and of his immediate predecessor on
the throne, Sidi Mohamed En Naceur Bacha, show dignified, intelligent,
amiable looking men; but the earlier rulers, with their fierce, dark
faces, glowering from beneath enormous turbans, suggest the pirates that
they were.
Adjoining the state apartments, in the rooms formerly occupied by the
women of the royal harem, has been gathered a remarkable collection of
antiquities and of Moorish and Arabic work under the name of the Musée
Alaoui. As this is not intended to be a guide-book to Tunis, I have
no intention of trespassing on the field of Herr Baedeker and Messrs.
Thomas Cook & Son by enumerating the many beautiful and interesting
objects—sculptures, faiences, arms, glassware, terra-cotta—which the
museum contains, though passing mention should be made of its collection
of ancient mosaics, which is one of the finest in existence. Occupying
nearly half of the floor of the great hall, an apartment sixty feet
in length, is an enormous mosaic in almost perfect preservation, “The
Triumph of Neptune,” found at Sousse; while set in the walls are mosaics
brought from various other parts of the regency—pagan mosaics from
Zaghouan; representations of a circus from Gafsa; a mosaic unearthed at
Tabarca depicting a Roman farm; and numerous other scenes. From these
the visitor possessed of a little imagination can obtain a very graphic
conception of the domestic life, recreations, and religious observances
of North Africa under the Romans. What a pity, I thought, that these
mosaics cannot be seen by the youth who is struggling with high school
and college Latin! Then he would realize that the ancients were not the
unreal, stilted figures portrayed in our dry-as-dust text-books, but that
they lived and loved and fought and played games and went to circuses
very much as we do, the chief difference being that they wore togas
instead of trousers and shouted, “To the lions with the Christians!”
instead of, “Kill the umpire!” But one of these days, perhaps, we shall
teach Latin more intelligently.
[Illustration: A GATE TO BARBARY
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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