Castles -- France; Touraine (France) -- Description and travel
At the station we found an omnibus which conveyed us to the Hotel du Bon
Laboureur, the Mecca of all hungry pilgrims, where a substantial
luncheon was soon spread before us, enlivened, as Walter puts it, by a
generous supply of the light wine of the country. Looking over my
shoulder, as I write, he declares that I am gilding that luncheon at the
Bon Laboureur with all the romance and glamour of Chenonceaux, and that
it was not substantial at all; but on the contrary pitifully light.
Perhaps I am idealizing the luncheon, as Walter says, but as part and
parcel of a day of unallayed happiness it stands out in my mind as a
feast of the gods, despite all adverse criticism. Being a mere man, as
Lydia expresses it, Walter feels the discomforts of travel more than we
women folk. He says that he is heartily tired of luncheons made up of
flimflams, omelettes, entrees, and the like, and when the inevitable
salad and fowl appeared he quite shocked us by saying that he would like
to see some real chicken, the sort that we have at home broiled by
Mandy, who knows how to cook chicken far and away better than these
Johnny Crapauds with all their boasted culinary skill.
Lydia and I were congratulating ourselves that no one could understand
this rude diatribe when we noticed, at the next table, our acquaintance
of Langeais, Lydia's aphoristic Frenchman, if I may coin a word. This
did not seem a good time to renew civilities, especially as he was
evidently laughing behind his napkin. I motioned to Walter to keep quiet
and gave him a look that was intended to be very severe, and then Miss
Cassandra, with her usual friendly desire to pour oil upon the troubled
waters, stirred them up more effectually by adding: "Yes, Walter, but in
travelling one must take the bad with the good; we have no buildings
like these at home and I for one am quite willing to give up American
social pleasures and luxuries for the sake of all that we see here and
all that we learn."
Can you imagine anything more bewildering to a Frenchman than Miss
Cassandra's philosophy, especially her allusion to American social
pleasures and luxuries, which to the average and untravelled French mind
would be represented, I fancy, by a native Indian picnic with a menu of
wild turkey and quail? It was a very good luncheon, I insisted, even if
not quite according to American ideas, and variety is one of the
pleasures of foreign travel,--this last in my most instructive manner
and to Lydia's great amusement. She alone grasped the situation, as
Walter and Miss Cassandra were seated with their backs to the stranger.
In order to prevent further criticisms upon French living I changed the
subject by asking Walter for our Joanne guidebook, and succeeded in
silencing the party, after Artemus Ward's plan with his daughter's
suitors, by reading aloud to them, during which the stranger finished
his luncheon and after the manner of the suitors quietly took his
departure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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