In the Border CountryCrockett, W. S. (William Shillinglaw)
History
In the Border Country
Crockett, W. S. (William Shillinglaw)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
thread to throw itself into the Tweed. It may be pertinacity, but to my
eye these grey hills, and all this wild Border Country have beauties
peculiar to themselves. When I have been for some time in the rich
scenery about Edinburgh which is like ornamented garden land, I begin to
wish myself back again among my own honest grey hills; and if I did not
see the heather at least once a year, I think I should die." Melrose is
the "Kennaquhair" of the "Monastery" and the "Abbot." Its glory, of
course, is its Abbey, unsurpassed in the beauty of death, but all grace
fled from its environment. Were it possible to transplant the Abbey
together with its rich associations to the site of the original
foundation by the beautiful bend at Bemersyde, Melrose would sit
enthroned peerless among the shrines of our northern land. Within
Melrose Abbey, near to the High Altar, the Bruce's heart rests well--its
fitful flutterings o'er. Here, too, lie the brave Earl Douglas, hero of
Chevy Chase; Liddesdale's dark Knight--another Douglas; Evers and
Latoun, the English commanders at Ancrum Moor, that ran so deadly red
with the blood of their countrymen; and, according to Sir Walter,
Michael Scot--
"Buried on St. Michael's night,
When the bell toll'd one, and the moon shone bright,
Whose chamber was dug among the dead,
When the floor of the chancel was stained red."
One is not surprised at Scott's love for Melrose. As the grandest
ecclesiastical ruin in the country, it must be seen to be understood.
Mere description counts for little in dealing with such a subject. Every
window, arch, cloister, corbel, keystone, door-head and buttress of this
excellent example of mediaeval Gothic is a study in itself--all
elaborately carved, yet no two alike. The sculpture is unequalled both
in symmetry and in variety, embracing some of the loveliest specimens of
floral tracery and the most quaint and grotesque representations
imaginable. The great east oriel is its most imposing feature. But the
south doorway and the chaste wheeled window above it are equally superb.
For what is regarded as the finest view of the building, let us stand
for a little at the north-east corner, not far from the grave of Scott's
faithful factotum, Tom Purdie. Here the _coup d'oeil_ is very
striking; and the contour of the ruins is realised to its full. Or if it
be preferred, let us look at the pile beneath the lee light o' the
moon--the conditions recommended in the "Lay."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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