In those days they went to Enfield by coach twice a week or so, from one
or another of the old inns, left standing to-day in Aldgate or
Bishopsgate. No coaches run now, but it is a pleasant walk, up through
the long northern suburb, still showing, spite of its being so citified,
traces of its old-time gentility in the square, stately, stolid brick
mansions, the rural homes of rich city merchants a century since. We
pass the High Cross at Tottenham, and beside it the _Swan Inn_,
descendant of that _Swan_ in front of which, within sight of their
beloved Lea, Anceps and Piscator rested “in a sweet, shady arbour which
nature herself has woven with her own fine fingers:” but the stream is
polluted now, and the arbour has gone, and Izaak Walton would not care
for the new _Swan_. So we pass by Bruce Castle, thus named because it
was owned by Robert Bruce, father of the Scotch king--now a boys’
school--and come into that bit of road famous for John Gilpin’s ride,
and so on into Edmonton. Here we turn from the highway--by which the
stage-coaches kept on northward to Ware and Hatfield--and going three
miles farther, along the cross road, we reach Enfield.
By rail it is ten miles from Liverpool Street Station, and we whisk
there in forty minutes by many trains each day; underground, behind
houses, over their roofs; along by Bethnal Green and Hackney Downs and
London Fields--where now can be seen no green nor downs nor any
fields--past Silver Street and Seven Sisters and White Hart Lane, and
many such prettily named places; and last of all through a stretch of
real country into the dapper little station of Enfield.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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