In the Land of Cave and Cliff DwellersSchwatka, Frederick
History
In the Land of Cave and Cliff Dwellers
Schwatka, Frederick
Chihuahua (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Sonora (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel; Tarahumara Indians
About half-past one on the first day out from Carichic we stopped
for our lunch in a grove of beautiful pines in the valley of the
Pasigochic, on the banks of a little stream of the same name. As I have
said, we had ridden about fifteen miles from Carichic and were all
very much in need of rest. Just before lunching we passed a number of
Tarahumari Indians of the civilized class, working in a small field of
about three or four acres. Even in this small space there were a dozen
others hard at work. Their dark, swarthy bodies were almost the color
of the rich soil in which they toiled, making their white breechclouts
and white straw hats, the only things they wore, look curious enough
when they moved about like so many unpoetical ghosts, as seen at a
distance.
[Illustration: A TARAHUMARI MOUNTAIN HOME.]
We were now well into the Sierra Madre range, and although the scenery
was so far about the equal of the Alleghanies or Catskills, there was
not much level ground for cultivation, and this was eagerly seized by
the working natives, not only to raise crops for their own use, but to
have some to sell; for from six to seven days' travel to the southwest
was the richest silver district in the world, where all kinds of
produce brought fabulous prices that would have enriched an American
farmer in one season--flour forty cents a pound and other things in
proportion. Indeed one of the best distinctions that could be made
between the wild and civilized Tarahumaris is the fact that the former
knows nothing of money nor makes any attempt to secure it, bartering
directly by exchange with the civilized native for those things he
wants and does not make; while the latter makes money his medium of
exchange, and seems to thoroughly appreciate its value.
The midday lunch for a party of Mexicans moving through the mountains
is quite long by comparison with American parties under like
circumstances. It was two hours before we got away again. There are
probably two reasons for this, one being that the midday is generally
warmer with them than with us, although this did not apply to us in the
cool, timbered regions of the high sierras; while the second reason is
clearly found in the fact that they seldom feed their mules on these
mountain trips, and must give them time to graze a fair-sized meal at
noon. The Mexican packs and unpacks the mules twice a day, the American
but once; for by feeding grain he can keep going until they want to
camp, making it much earlier than his Mexican brother, who, starting
at three o'clock, has to go until six or seven to make a respectable
afternoon's march. By three o'clock the American is generally in camp,
having made the same distance and having done half the work. It is
doubtful, however, if American mules would do as well here under like
circumstances.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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