In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
History
In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia : $b Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881
Wills, C. J. (Charles James)
Iran -- Description and travel; Wills, C. J. (Charles James), 1842-1912 -- Travel -- Iran
The shargird chupper brought our chaff-bags filled, and laid one on
either side of the fireplace as a mattress; we laid our rugs, and put
our saddle-bags for pillows. We made a big fire, borrowed a kettle, got
some strong tea under weigh, enjoyed a dinner of cold fowl and biscuit;
barricaded our door, which seemed merely three planks nailed together,
and lay down to sleep like tops. The naib, or postmaster, replaced the
brick, and the ashes of our fire were alight in the morning. I _never_
enjoyed a night’s rest so much. But at 5 A.M. there was the Colonel with
the tea under weigh, and adjuring me to rise.
Up I got, gobbled down some hot tea, and we started in the snow at six,
for it had come down heavily in the night.
Ah, it _was_ cold! and hardly light, the horses trying to turn back as
we followed at a snail’s pace the shargird, who seemed not to know much
of the road. In a few minutes I was sitting on alternate hands in a vain
attempt to keep them warm. We had fortunately taken the precaution to put
on big Turkish wool socks over our boots, and this kept our feet from
freezing, for the cold stirrup-iron soon, in such weather, extracts any
warmth from the feet.
At last the light came, and we could see the village and post-house, some
half-mile off, after an hour’s wandering; but we were on the road, which
was something. And now that we could see to go, and the shargird was sure
of the way, off we went at the usual pace, a smart gallop. Nine o’clock
brought us to the next stage—five farsakhs.
We reached Meana, at which there is a fine new post-house, at about
five, but we had arranged that, unless we were compelled to sleep at
this place, we would avoid it, as the celebrated so-called _bug of
Meana_ is found here. During the whole time I have resided in Persia I
never could find any one who had suffered any ill effects from the bite
of the “Meana bug” at all in proportion to the horrors narrated; and I
must look on the description given by travellers as apocryphal: Eastwick
dilates on it. The kenneh, or camel-tic, certainly causes a particularly
irritating wound, which will be found fully described further on. But the
“Meana bug,” I am inclined to think, is nothing more than an ordinary
camel- or perhaps sheep-tic, and by no means dangerous to life (_pace_
Eastwick). But we both at that time were inclined to believe that there
_was something_ in the terrible accounts given of the insect, and so we
avoided Meana. As it was we made a very great mistake; Meana, having
at that time a brand-new post-house, was quite safe; but as we pushed
on darkness caught us, and we did not arrive till nearly ten at night
at Turcomanchai. Here was an old caravanserai only to put up in; the
post-house was in ruins. And on the Colonel asking the postmaster if he
had many insects he shrugged his shoulders in a significant manner.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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