Ireland -- Description and travel; Ireland -- Social conditions
Now, these are the circumstances of six or seven tenants out of ten in
the lowlands of Kerry, where they seem to be comparatively well off. If
we leave the plains for the higher districts bordering on the sea, the
question is simpler still. There is no need of long accounts here. The
hour of irretrievable misery has struck long ago, and habitual hunger
stares us in the face.
* * * * *
UP IN THE MOUNTAINS.
The mountains of Kerry are the finest in the island. They form its
south-western angle, throwing out on the Atlantic the peninsula of
Dingle, between the bay of the same name and the Kenmare River. As you
leave the plain following the Cahirciveen road towards the coast, you see
them develop their parallel ranges, which are divided by deep valleys.
Some of these valleys are fertile, being watered by impetuous streams
from the mountain side. But the general impression one receives is
that of agricultural poverty, as is the case in nearly all mountainous
countries in the world. Pastures are thinner, cattle less numerous,
homesteads fewer and more miserable than in the plain. Human creatures
themselves partake of the general look of wretchedness that prevails.
They live on potatoes, milk, and porridge; seldom eat bread, meat never;
wine, beer, tea, coffee are to them unknown luxuries. Their ill-shaped
cottages are made of soft stone, with a thatched roof maintained by ropes
made of straw. There they all sleep on a bed of rushes, which they share
with the pig, when there is such a thing, for even the traditional pig
has become now a symptom of wealth in a manner. On the beams of the roof
roost perhaps half-a-dozen hens and chickens.
Sloth and dirt hold here an undivided sway. Not a woman—and some are
pretty—seems to mind the spots and holes in her garments; not one knows
the use of soap or needle. They appear to have a rooted dislike for
the comb; their hair falls on their back as is the fashion among the
Australian aborigines, in nature’s simple disorder.
Men look heavy and apathetic. They work as little as they can manage—one
or two days out of seven, perhaps—and do not even think of seeking their
sustenance from the sea, which is so close to them. The most they can do
is to draw from it now and then a cart-load of seaweed to manure their
miserable plot of ground. Their existence rolls on dull, idle, devoid of
interest. It is the brute life in its most wretched and hideous state.
Here is old Ireland as Gustave de Beaumont’s admirable book showed it
to us fifty years ago. Hardly do those wretched products of Anglo-Saxon
civilization receive a faint echo of the outer world when the electoral
time comes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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