Isle of WightMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
Isle of Wight
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Isle of Wight (England) -- Description and travel
Tennyson naturally had a dread of new building about Freshwater; and
some other landowners here seem to share the same exclusive spirit,
which may account for the neighbourhood not being more “developed” as a
resort, while its warmest admirers lament how much it has grown since
the Laureate settled here. It has no want of attractions, not always
accessible on the steep face of chalk, scarred and pitted by works of
time like Freshwater Arch and Freshwater Cave near the little bay,
beyond which come honeycombings known by such names as “Neptune’s Caves”
and “Bar Cave”--“Frenchman’s Hole,” from an escaped prisoner said to
have starved here--Lord Holmes’ “Parlour,” “Kitchen,” and “Cellar,”
where that governor was in the way
[Illustration: FRESHWATER BAY]
of entertaining his friends--“Roe’s Hall”--“Preston’s Bower”--the “Wedge
Rock,” a triangular mass wedged in between the cliff and an isolated
pyramid some 50 feet high--the “Arched Cavern” in Scratchell’s Bay, and
the “Needles Cave,” into which small boats can peep before rounding the
jagged corner. It is said that Professor Tyndall used to keep himself in
climbing practice by scrambling on these treacherous rocks; and if this
be true, I so far question the wisdom of that pundit. The harrying of
airy nests makes a better excuse for such riskful gymnastics. The
fissured cliff line is tenanted by sea-fowl, which the report of a gun
brings out in screaming and hovering crowds, conspicuous among them the
black and white cormorants nicknamed “Isle of Wight parsons.”
These sights are to be visited by boat, if a stranger have stomach for
the adventure. On foot one can mount the back of the cliff known at
first as the Nodes, then as the Mainbench, or in general as the High
Downs. At the highest point of the Nodes, nearly 500 feet, the old
beacon has been replaced by an Iona Cross in memory of Tennyson, with
whom this was a favourite walk in the wildest weather. A grand walk it
is upon a crest of greensward so smooth that bicycles find a track here
among the flying golf balls. In dry weather this smooth turf is
slippery, as one might find too late on its treacherous edges. Further
on, the straight way is barred by a fort, where, between Scratchell’s
Bay and Alum Bay, the ridge narrows and drops to the spur pointed by
those insular masses known as the “Needles,” that, seen at a hazy
distance, rise out of the sea like three castles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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