Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
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Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
I went out after all this afternoon with W. and Monsignor English to St.
John Lateran, where they were singing a Miserere of Cappoci's. It is
most strange, weird music, and the voices of the men are so unlike
anything one hears elsewhere. There was always the same crowd. I will
say Cook does his business thoroughly--wherever there is anything to see
or hear he pilots all his band. After the Miserere was over we stood
some time at the foot of the Scala Santa. It was black with people going
up on their knees, saying a prayer at each step (I think there are 30)
and some of them did look serious and absorbed. They were principally
peasants--every now and then some well-dressed bourgeois. Monsignor
English told us we would be surprised at the class of people (society)
who come early, before the great crowd of sight-seers.
We went back to the Palazzo Altemps, picking up Count Palfy on the way,
where Gert had promised us tea and hot cross buns from Spillman's (very
good they were).
We found a note from the Quirinal when we came home saying the Queen
would receive us to-morrow at 2.30. Desprez came and sat some time. He
told W. all that was going on in Paris--the Ministry as usual struggling
against the Radicals who are always wanting to suppress the French
Embassy at the Vatican. It doesn't make the position of the Ambassador
very pleasant, but Desprez is very wise, has had long training at the
Foreign Office, and will certainly do all he can to conciliate and keep
things straight.
_To H. L. K._
Saturday, March 27, 1880.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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