Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
MAY 7.--From Lyons to St. Symphorien, our breakfast-stage, twelve miles.
For the first seven, the outskirts of Lyons, extending along the western
bank of the Rhone, continue to exhibit one unvarying appearance of
wealth and population. The Archbishop's palace, which stands about two
miles out of the city, on a hill overlooking the river, does not add
much to the beauty of the country, as it strongly resembles a large
manufactory. St. Symphorien, a neat small town, marked by a ruined
watch-tower to the left of the road, possesses no inn at which a
tolerable breakfast can be procured; but we fared well, in this respect,
at a coffee-house in the middle of the town, situated under the Mairie.
To Vienne, nine miles more. During this stage, the Alps become again
visible in full majesty, from a high terrace overlooking a range of
woody rising ground; and extend as far as the eye can reach from north
to south. Mont Blanc and Monte Viso, the Gog and Magog of this gigantic
chain, preserve their pre-eminence; the distant pyramid of the latter,
which shoots into the clouds like the Peak of Teneriffe, from a cluster
of lower mountains, contrasting with the massy dome of the former. From
its figure and position in the map, I judged it could be no other than
Monte Viso, which is so strikingly conspicuous on the road from Coni to
Turin. Mont Pilate, towards the foot of which the Rhone wound to the
right, sinks into utter insignificance when compared with these Alps,
though of a height and grandeur which would render it a leading feature
in Wales or Cumberland. It is considered in this neighbourhood as stored
with rich specimens of botany, and its appearance, much less scorched
and barren than the mountains of a southern climate usually are, renders
this probable.
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