Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819 — John Shaqi
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
The view of Vienne, as you descend into the narrow green valley in which
it is situated, crowned by the dark ruins of an old Roman castle, and
watered by a deep and rapid reach of the Rhone, combines beauties
calculated to please all tastes. On the opposite side of the river,
overlooking the ruins of a bridge with which it probably once
communicated as a guard-house, stands a tall, square, Roman tower,
called the Tour[10] de Mauconseil. The legends of the country affirm,
that this was the abode of Pontius Pilate,[11] and that, in a fit of
despair and frenzy, he threw himself from its windows into the Rhone,
where he perished. This point the good Catholics must settle as they can
with the Swiss, who maintain that he drowned himself in a little Alpine
lake on the mountain which bears his name; and that the storms by which
it is frequently agitated are occasioned by the writhings of his
perturbed spirit. Nothing shows more forcibly the power of association
in minds not capable of discriminating, than that the name of a man so
obviously a reluctant instrument in the hands of God, and who declared
by a public act his abhorrence of the part he was forced to act, should
be selected as synonymous to every thing fiendlike and murderous.
[Footnote 10: Vide Cooke's Views.]
[Footnote 11: There is, I believe, positive historical authority, which
fixes Vienne as the place of Pilate's banishment and death.]
The cathedral of Vienne was shut, and its external appearance did not
tempt us to make further inquiries; but we were directed to a Roman
temple, which, like that at Nismes, is called the Maison Carree. It can
only boast of the remains of lofty pilasters, and the marks of what was
once an inscription; and the inside being converted into a
paltry-looking palais de justice, will hardly repay the trouble of
waiting for the concierge. We departed from Vienne with too unfavourable
an impression of its dirty inn, and of the place in general, to render
us desirous of spending the night there. The squalid, dispiriting
appearance of the town itself, indeed, forms a strong contrast both to
the fine country in which it stands, and the capital letters which
decorate its name in the map of France. Instead of loitering in its
smoky, desolate streets, while horses are changing, I should recommend
the traveller to walk on and await their arrival at the Aiguille, an old
Roman monument so called, which stands close to the road on the right,
within about a mile of the town. This singular pyramidical relic
commands a beautiful view of the Rhone, winding into the sequestered
vallies at the foot of Mont Pilate; and the variety of coins and other
small relics, found there, indicate the ancient boundaries of the city
as extensive, and comprising both this building and the temple
above-mentioned; The inhabitants, forgetting that a person once set
afloat "in the blue rushing of the arrowy Rhone," would probably find no
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