Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
At Tain, the Rhone forces for itself a narrow passage into the vale of
Valence, from among the rugged skirts of Mont Pilate, leaving on the one
side Tain, and on the other Tournon; both backed by strong heights,
which seem to guard the entrance of the defile. The situation of Tournon
is striking, and very much corresponds with the ideas which one forms of
a strong baronial hold upon the Rhine. A large portion of the
precipitous hill which commands it, is connected with the town by a
broken line of grim old walls and towers, which betoken the former
importance of this position. Its castle, a building of a heavy
conventual style of architecture, and standing on a fortified terrace,
formerly belonged to the Prince de Soubisc, but is now converted, as we
were informed, into a prison. To this purpose it is well adapted, as a
leap from one of the round towers which breast the river at the angles
of its terrace, would be fatal; and the character of despotism impressed
on its walls seems to say, that in former times its uses were not very
different. The resemblance indeed which it bears to the Chateau
d'Amboise on the Loire, the scene of the Duke de Guise's murder, may
possibly assist its effect on the imagination.
On issuing from this gloomy but not uninteresting spot, the eye opens
upon an extensive prospect, rich in many of those features which we find
scattered through the works of Claude and Salvator. To the right, the
hills which hung[13] over the road to Tain, recede into a long
perspective, terminated in the distance by a ruined castle on a
pyramidical rock, near Valence; and the Rhone, following the same
direction, winds away from the road in a slower and wider current than
before. To the left, the outskirts of the Dauphine Alps form a
singularly wild and fantastic barrier, sometimes rising in abrupt
pinnacles, and sometimes rent as if by an earthquake into precipices of
some thousand feet of sheer perpendicular descent. The vale inclosed
between these rough walls, and in the centre of which the Isere unites
itself to the Rhone, appears a perfect garden in point of richness,
cheerfulness, and high cultivation. We crossed the Isere, a strong and
rapid stream, by a ferry, for our Itineraire, with its usual accuracy,
forgot to mention that the bridge of which it speaks was broken down by
Augereau on the advance of the Austrians. Within two or three miles of
Valence, a rising ground, fringed with scattered oak underwood, affords
a more distinct and striking semicircular view of the mountains to the
left; and glimpses of others yet more distant, bordering an immense
plain, through which the Rhone takes its course towards Avignon.
[Footnote 13: Vide Cooke's Views.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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