The immediate valley of the Mississippi, opposite the little village of Bainbridge, ten miles above Cape Girardeau, is four miles wide, and exclusive of the river, which washes the bluffs along the western side. Upwards, it expands into the broad fertile and anciently populous valley, called the American bottom; on the east, it is bounded by abrupt hills of a deep argillaceous loam, disclosing no rocks, and rather infertile, bearing forests of oak, sweet gum, tupelo, &c. The road crossing the hilly country between the Mississippi and the village of Golconda on the Ohio passes several precocious little towns, which appear, as is often the case in a recently settled country, to have outgrown their permanent resources. The lands, however, are not entirely worthless; and on some of the upper branches of the Cache, a river of the Ohio, we passed some fertile bottoms, though they are not entirely exempt from inundation at the periodical floods. The compact limestone about Golconda, near the sources of Grand Pierre creek, and near Covedown rock, contains beautiful crystals of Derbyshire spar; sulphuret of lead also occurs in that vicinity, as we have been informed, in veins accompanying the fluate of lime.[77] On arriving at Golconda, Dr. James had become so much indisposed, by a recurrence of fever and {188} ague, as to be unable to proceed. This circumstance, with others, induced Lieut. Swift to leave the steam-boat, for the winter, at the mouth of Cumberland river. After a delay of a few days, he continued his journey towards Philadelphia on horseback.[78] * * * * * Having thus traced the progress of the exploring party to their final separation, we shall add some discussions concerning the countries west of the Alleghany mountains, of a more general description than deemed compatible with the humble style of a diary, which we thought convenient to be retained in our narrative. The following paper, from Major Long, comprises, moreover, the results of many observations made on various journeys previous to those detailed in the foregoing account, and in parts of the country remote from those traversed by the expedition. FOOTNOTES: [48] For the following topics mentioned in this chapter, see Nuttall's _Journal_, in our volume xiii: William Darby (note 181), Caddo Indians (103), Little Rock (123).--ED. [49] Ellicott; 31° 1´ 15˝, according to M. de Ferrer.--JAMES. _Comment by Ed._ 30° 58´ 50.28˝ is correct.