Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Once a fine strand of pearls has been selected, it should be strung so
as to gain full advantage from its own lustre. The glow of pearls is
enhanced by their reflection; the closer they are to one another, the
more beautiful they all look. Knots, sometimes fashioned between pearls
to strengthen their stringing, should never be made in the front of the
necklace. But if this is done, for reasons of safety, the pearl stringer
must take care to make the knots extremely small and very close with no
gaps showing between the pearls. The rhythm of the well-matched pearl
necklace with the highlights moving from one pearl to the next should not
be disturbed by improper stringing. When a string breaks, it is virtually
always near the clasp; knots, therefore, should be made for the five
pearls on each side of the clasp. This is usually enough for safety and
does not interfere with the beauty of the jewel.
_The Necklace Clasp_
Whatever the necklace, it must have a clasp. For a single strand, the
clasp should be small and worn in the back. A large clasp is apt to turn
or become entangled in the hair.
With a pearl necklace, a clasp of a colored stone, such as a ruby or an
emerald, will make an effective complement, highlighting the pearls; but
for any necklace a diamond clasp offers perfect harmony. A frequently
available diamond to use for such a clasp may be found nestling next to
the little finger of the left hand—the diamond of the engagement ring,
“grown too small along the years.” Such a stone has lost none of its
sentimental value. Its sparkle and the memory of courtship nights may be
preserved in a necklace clasp.
_Designs for Clasps_
A larger necklace of double or triple strands naturally calls for a more
elaborate clasp. Such a clasp should not be merely a functional piece to
hold the necklace together; it should be chosen for its own beauty and
harmony. Often such a clasp, with the holding mechanism hidden, is worn
in the front.
An effective design, in excellent taste with most jewels, may be
fashioned in a flower motif with a black pearl in the centre. A
smart-looking clasp, consisting of round diamonds and baguettes, can be
made to separate into as many smaller clasps as the necklace has strands.
One may thus wear a single necklace of, say, three strands, or three
separate necklaces at the same time or on different occasions. Different
lengths and combinations of necklaces can be arranged, in this way, to
suit the mood or various degrees of décolleté. Clipped together, the
whole clasp forms a beautiful ornament at the back of the necklace.
_For Formal Wear_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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