Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
With a strapless evening gown, where the line of the back should be
uninterrupted, another pattern of necklace and clasp lends distinction
to the ensemble. This is an arrangement of three to five strands in the
front, with only two or, at most, three smaller strands, close together
in the back. There are two motifs, one on each side, separating the back
strands from the ones in front; one of these motifs conceals the clasp.
The two motifs, which may be of diamonds or of gold, should be visible
only from the front, so as to preserve the graceful lines of the back
décolleté; they can be highly decorative while remaining less formal or
less pretentious than a necklace of diamonds.
When wearing such a many-stranded necklace, long earclips, at other
times suitable to an evening gown, should be eschewed; the combination
will seem overdone. The two clasps and the strands of pearls will be
sufficiently eloquent, if worn together with regular, not pendant,
earrings.
_The Sentimental Clasp_
A clasp may often be fashioned of an heirloom. There may be a brooch or
a ring which has been passed along in a family for generations or been
linked with personal and sentimental episodes and memories. Or there may
be a piece of jewelry which a woman does not wish to abandon—yet which
has fallen out of style. What may look old-fashioned on the dress front
may preserve all its beauty as a clasp. Indeed, an old piece of jewelry,
without altering the setting, may in this way be incorporated into a
necklace. The very beautiful early Victorian or baroque flower brooches,
for example, and rings and ornamental pins of those styles, may readily
be converted into clasps for a two- or three-strand necklace. A brooch
may become a centerpiece to be worn in the front, or it can give an
unusual but becoming effect worn at the side. Carefully fitted to sit at
the proper place at one side of the neck, such a clasp adds distinction
to the contour.
_Fitting the Pearl Necklace_
A properly chosen pearl or bead necklace can do much to counterbalance
features of the neck. Few women realize this and therefore do not pay
sufficient attention to their choice. They spend less time on this than
on the selection of a hat. Yet I have seen cases where as little as
one-eighth of an inch difference in length made all the difference in the
world in beauty.
For a long neck, the necklace should be short and rest on or a little
above the nape of the neck. For a shorter and wider neck, the necklace
should come a little below the nape to create an oval rather than a round
impression. A heavy neck can be deftly dressed in three or four strands.
The first strand should nestle slightly below the nape of the neck with
just a little space left between the rows—too much will give the effect
of a dowager. Properly spaced, such a necklace will create a slender and
youthful appearance. A motif on each side, by breaking the even line,
will further create an effect of a longer and more slender neck.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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