Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
At the height of mid-century necklace fashion is the addition of the
single drop. This should not be long, like a pendant, but rather one
large extra stone, clipped on close to the collier to add chic and
smartness. It may be a pear-shaped diamond, a grey or a black pearl,
an emerald, or indeed any stone that harmonizes with the necklace
color—though most frequently such a drop is worn on a necklace of
diamonds or pearls. The single stone is set with an almost invisible
clasp and can be attached to the necklace at any point desired.
Resultant effects can be startling. The appearance of the necklace may
be completely transformed; a daytime jewel may be transmuted to evening
elegance. Various moods can be deftly suggested, or stressed, by the
clever placing of the jewel drop.
_Transformations_
The construction of a necklace so that it can be transformed, as I
suggested before in connection with the rivière, marks an increasing
aspect of jewelry design. The diamond necklace, appropriate only to the
off-shoulder evening gown and adorning only the most formal occasions,
spends more time in the treasure chest or vault than any other jewel. Its
usefulness is increased many-fold when it is so created that it comes
apart to form bracelets and clips and other jewels more frequently worn.
The devising of detachable parts and convertible jewels is no new-fangled
practice. It began in France before the French Revolution, first gaining
popularity with a social élite that initiated many fashions. Many
eighteenth and nineteenth century necklaces also served as tiaras. Jewels
in our museums today testify to the great skill and ingenuity with which
the earlier artists cunningly contrived and concealed the mechanical
devices that made possible these transformations.
_My Own Conversions_
One of my own most exacting assignments was to create such a necklace
for a beautiful Viennese ballerina. It was specified that the necklace
should separate to form a bracelet and five clips of various sizes.
Two of these were to form an assorted pair of dress clips; two were to
be matched for the ears; one was to be larger, to serve as a brooch
but with an attachment so that it might also become a hair ornament.
The completed necklace, which was really a unified parure, was put on
exhibition, bringing me my first Gold Medal _für Schönheit und Kunst_ at
the Künstlerhaus.
Another of my necklaces, displayed in color in Vogue Magazine, is
separable into two bracelets, of different size and design, and a large
dip that can be used on a dress or as the centerpiece in other jewels.
Other convertibles suggest themselves, once the imagination begins to
play. It must be remembered that the problem is complex, because it is
not simply a question of what other jewels a main piece can be broken
into. The major concern is how well all the transformations fit the
personality of the individual who is to wear them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account