Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
In the first place, the manifold aspects of its symbolism—to be discussed
more fully later—bar this jewel from any casual giving. A brooch, a
clip, earclips, or a bracelet: all these might be sent as a gift to any
person, without further thought; but a ring is bought for and given to
a relative, or someone closer still—or someone to whom one wishes to be
close. And the recipient of a ring should be aware of the implications
involved in its acceptance. If a ring is proffered as a gift before
there is an understanding that admits of such a present, the intended
recipient will find a gracious way of declining such an “elaborate” or
“too magnificent” or “over-generous” gift.
_Consider the Hand_
The right to give a ring includes the pleasure of selecting a gift that
will both please and adorn. This demands some consideration of that fine
instrument too often taken for granted, the human hand. Most of the time
we merely use our hands. Nevertheless, almost unconsciously yet almost
inevitably, our glance falls upon a person’s fingers when we meet, for
the hands are the surest guide to an individual’s make-up. And I do not
mean the “make-up” that is applied. Faces may be altered; neck wrinkles
may be disguised; fingernails are dressed up; chins may be lifted; noses
may be shaped—the hands remain undisguised.
The ring calls attention to the hand. It invites the gaze, which, while
admiring the ring, is also aware of the fingers that are background to
the jewel. And the ring should be selected not only to fit the finger but
also to suit the hand.
_Proportions of the Hand_
A hand may be long and slender or long and large. It may be short and
stubby or short and thin. It may taper from the palm along almost
straight fingers or have the line broken by larger knuckles. There are
differences in the proportion between the fingers and the palm. All of
these elements of finger size and shape, of hand proportions, should
be weighed in selecting a ring. They have an important bearing on the
size and shape of the stones, and on the width or thickness of the band.
Comparatively few women, however often they may have polished their
nails, are really familiar with their hands.
Certain general proportions between rings and hands need little more than
mention. A small ring overemphasizes a large hand. On slender fingers or
a small hand, a large ring is overpowering. If a fairly large ring is
desired by someone with a dainty hand, a dome-shaped ring may be most
becoming, or a ring with the stone set high; but it should be worn only
on the third finger. Such a ring adds considerable style to an outfit.
If the fingers are quite short, however, it will be best to choose an
oblong ring. If the fingers are long and thin, the stone should be set
so as to run not along the finger but across it; the eye, following the
ring, tends to foreshorten the finger length. The ring should fit the
personality; the stone may fit the occasion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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