Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
There are two main types of bracelets in general use. First came the
stiff bangle bracelet, a rigid band. This may be of one piece, the
so-called “slave” bracelet, which must be slipped over the hand. Or it
may be provided with a hinged and a pronged catch or other form of a
clasp, which either opens or loosens the bracelet for putting on and
removal. The second type is the flexible bracelet. This may be a linked
chain or a series of motifs. In recent years a sort of spring-link
device has been developed so that the bracelet opens to slip over the
hand, then tightens to cling to the appropriate position on the arm.
_Favorite Shapes_
In either of these types, there are three popular shapes in which the
bracelet may be fashioned. It may be tapered, thin on the underside
of the wrist and wider on the back, which is of course the part most
prominently displayed. Gold or diamond bracelets lend themselves to this
form. More frequent is the straight bracelet, even all around the arm.
This may be of gold, diamonds, pearls, or other stones, in a single band
or in several rows that make a sort of cuff. The third popular variety is
a bracelet with a comparatively simple band crowned with a major motif,
centered, of course, on the upper side of the wrist.
_The Special Clasp_
This prominent center design may be utilized as the clasp of the
bracelet. A separate design for the clasp, indeed, may add considerably
to the beauty of the jewel. In fact, an attractive motif for concealing
the actual mechanism of the clasp affords one of the few opportunities
for making use of another jewel. A treasured brooch or ring, without
requiring the resetting of stones or the breaking up of the jewel, may be
incorporated into a bracelet as an ornamental clasp. The beautiful round
or oval Victorian brooches, the still charming baroque flower pins and
rings, lend themselves with exceptional readiness to this use. Such a
clasp, as a centerpiece, may grace a many-stranded pearl bracelet, or one
of gold chain or gold motifs.
_Bracelet Width_
The width of the bracelet should never exceed the width of the special
clasp. Too wide a band will dwarf the clasp and destroy its decorative
value. In this style of bracelet, the clasp is designed to be a dramatic
eye-catcher.
_For the Slim Arm_
If the wrist is small, the bracelet should be worn low on the arm. A
narrow gold or pearl bracelet will be most becoming. Too wide a band will
tend to make the hand seem bony. A slim arm will seem rounder with a
bracelet of slender chains set with small stones.
A pleasantly slender wrist calls for a striking bracelet that will hold
the eye. It may be tight fitting with a motif on top. This will draw
attention to the attractive feature, in the same way that a beautiful
hand is enhanced by a dramatic ring.
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