Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Anklets today are worn by exotic dancers and teenagers. In ancient times,
the anklet had two distinct uses. In iron, it was the sign and token of a
slave. As a jewel, it adorned a woman in her work-free hours, or a woman
whose sole work was to entertain her lord and master. For this purpose,
it might be of gold or of colored glass; often there dangled from the
band gold medallions that tinkled or bells that gaily chimed as the
wearer walked or moved in her dancing.
The second type of anklet, in the western world today, is to be seen only
on the stage; even there, mainly in musical comedies with an Oriental
setting. But, perhaps to counterbalance the identification bracelets worn
by the young men called to the colors in the wars of this century, some
of the girls they left behind have taken to wearing “slave anklets.”
At first a sign of a promised waiting, these soon became a vogue, and
they are still worn by some young women without thought of any binding
attachment.
The usual anklet is a thin chain of links of gold, but some are
interspersed with small pearls, and some have a colored stone set snug in
the band, near the anklebone at each side. They should not be worn in the
evening to any kind of formal affair and indeed should be discarded as
soon as the teenager has grown.
CHAPTER 9
_Pins, Brooches and Clips_
To broach a cask of ale is to set the liquor flowing, to open the gates
of good will; but the broach (and it’s still pronounced that way even
when we spell it _brooch_) had as its purpose the closing and the holding
together of the dress. In its simplest form it was an awl or a bodkin,
used as a clasp or a fastener. Then came the pin with a hinge or spring
at one end and a catch or loop at the other. Such safety-pin brooches, or
_fibulae_, were common in ancient times; they were in use at least as far
back as 1000 B.C., and since the third century B.C. have been developed
as decorative jewels. The simple type—in the large size we call it a
“blanket pin”—is still used to hold together the wrap-around Scots kilt,
preserving the secret beneath.
_Elaborate Pins_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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