From Nice Bute and his friends went straight to Rome--his first visit there--where he spent a week, including Ash Wednesday, on which day he received the blessed ashes from the hand of Pius IX. in the Sistine Chapel. Next morning he communicated at the private Mass of the Holy Father, who afterwards administered to him the sacrament of confirmation. Bute made a munificent offering of Peter's Pence to the Pope, who in turn presented him with a magnificent reliquary. On February 23 he wrote to Mrs. Scott Murray from Sicily: R.Y.S. _Ladybird_, Harbour of Messina. We arrived here safely last night, and are to continue our voyage this afternoon. As we have spent so much time already we are not going to stop at Patmos on the way, but make straight for Jaffa, going north of Crete. As Mr. Murray prophesied, I was very "agreeably disappointed" in Rome. I went to only a few of the most celebrated sanctuaries, but I liked them very much. The sight of the Holy Father had a very great effect on me, and it is impossible for me to speak too warmly of his kindness. Every one was most civil, which is a rarity for me to meet with. The Holy Father has given all the permissions which we wanted, and we have had Mass {75} three times on board, making up a very nice altar in Mr. Capel's cabin. The odd thing is that we have not had a row yet, but are all quite on good terms, a state of things which I suppose one need not hope to continue. Accept my best wishes and continued thanks for kindnesses received, and believe me, Sincerely and gratefully, yours ever, BUTE. [Sidenote: 1868, Letter from Jerusalem] The journey to Palestine ("the continuation of my pilgrimage of thanksgiving," as Bute called it in a subsequent letter) was safely accomplished, and Mgr. Capel wrote to Mrs. Scott Murray on Palm Sunday from Jerusalem: Thank God, all is going well. We have had some physical discomforts, indisposition, etc., but our pilgrimage viewed spiritually is singularly blessed. I hope to lay in a store of grace for my future work. Certainly nothing could be more touching than our visits to the Holy Places. Bute gives great edification. He communicates very frequently, and is growing rapidly in Catholic devotion. Now that I live with him I see, of course, some weaknesses--among others a tendency to idleness; but he has much charm of character and personality. You will probably know through the papers that he has accepted the Grand Cross of the Order of the Holy Sepulchre. Our journey will be dreadfully prolonged. I am afraid we shall not reach England until June: our plans change at every moment. I send for you and Mr. Murray the enclosed pictures, which have touched the Holy Places. My affectionate regards to you all, including _the_ officer.[15] {76}