In order to cover as much ground as possible during the descent,
we here agreed to take different directions, and lost sight of each
other for some time. Hooker came upon a small mountain village,
or hamlet, where several Bereber or Riffian families were crowded
together in hovels built of mud mixed with stone, and rather
better fitted to resist the weather than the sheds we had seen
in the plain. Conversation was not practicable, but there was no
indication of ill will on the part of these people. The only attempt
at intercourse was on the part of one sturdy man who apparently
requested a pinch of snuff, but declined the offer of a cigar. The
use of tobacco for smoking appears to be unknown in Marocco, while
_kief_—prepared from the chopped leaves of common hemp—is almost
universally employed for that purpose both by Moors and Berebers;
but snuff is in general request, and is imported in considerable
quantities, both by regular traders and by smugglers who profit
largely by the heavy duty.
In descending the mountain we observed large patches of a species
of furze, smaller and stiffer in habit than our common gorse—the
_Ulex bæticus_ of Boissier—one of a group of nearly allied forms
that replace our British species in the south of Spain and Portugal,
and the neighbouring shores of Marocco.
On rejoining our so-called escort, we agreed that the track was too
steep to make riding pleasant; and thus we all descended on foot
till near the foot of the mountain, when a proper care for their
dignity compelled the soldiers and the guide to remount.
We returned to our quarters in the town before the sun had set, and
closed a very enjoyable day by reviewing our botanical prizes as
we laid them into paper to undergo the first step in the process
of their preservation. As usual the evening cigar accompanied
our discussion as to future proceedings, and to its soothing
influence we doubtless owe the fact that these debates always led
to a satisfactory conclusion. On this occasion we agreed to divide
our small party into two sections and separate for a few days. Maw
was anxious to return at once to Tangier, with a view to visit
some swamps that lie about ten miles south-west of the town, while
Hooker and Ball were desirous of examining the coast between Tetuan
and Ceuta. As it appeared that a small stock of Spanish would serve
all necessary purposes in the excursion to Ceuta, Maw volunteered
to take our disagreeable interpreter and one unnecessary soldier
back to Tangier, while Bulbo was willing to risk a visit to the
infidels at Ceuta.
On the morning of the 12th Maw departed, but Hooker was unwell. It
was decided that a quiet day and the judicious exhibition of
moderate doses of cognac, which we owed to the kindness of the
Spanish consul, would be the most appropriate treatment; and the
result was quite satisfactory.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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