Ball spent the day in botanising over the hills near the town,
and was well satisfied with the result. The rarest plant found was,
perhaps, a curious and very distinct fumitory (_Fumaria africana_
of Lamarck), which he had gathered nearly at the same spot twenty
years before. The red-flowered Polygala of Beni Hosmar (_P. Webbiana_
of Cosson) was seen in a few spots near the town along with _Arabis
pubescens_; and that singular plant, the _Drosophyllum_, hitherto
seen in Marocco only on the hills west of Tangier, was here found
within sight of the Mediterranean, growing along with _Helianthemum
umbellatum_ and several other less rare species of the Cistus tribe.
During our stay here we had a good opportunity of seeing something
of the life of the Marocco Jews, who form a distinct and important
element in the population of the empire. Tetuan has long been one
of the head-quarters of the Hebrew race. When most of the chief
Moorish families took refuge here after their expulsion from
Spain—and some are said still to preserve the keys of their
own houses in Granada—many Jews, flying from the faggots of the
Inquisition, preferred the comparative toleration of Moslem rule,
to the oppression and social disabilities that awaited them in
Christian Europe. It was more tolerable to submit to occasional
injustice and cruelty which was shared by all classes of society
around them than to be daily reminded that they formed a class
apart—the proper objects of general contempt and aversion. It
is true that until late years the Marocco Jew was exposed to some
vexatious regulations. He was required to put off his sandals on
passing the outside of a mosque, to wear a peculiar dress, and is
still confined to a separate quarter in each town. But in ordinary
intercourse between man and man the Jews of the coast towns seemed
to us to have attained a footing of almost complete equality, due as
well to their superior intelligence and commercial instinct, as to
the tolerance which affinity of race and creed has developed among
the people of Arab stock. In truth, the Moor feels that the Jew is
indispensable to him. In despite of his aversion to intercourse with
the Christian, trade, in which the Jew serves as intermediary, has
become a practical necessity, and it has procured for him foreign
luxuries which he is now little inclined to forego.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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