On the morning of April 13 we started for Ceuta, about thirty miles distant from Tetuan. The track for several miles lies at some distance from the coast, which on the north side of the mouth of the river forms a projecting headland, called by the Spaniards Cabo Negro. After riding through green lanes, we mounted gradually by a broad path that winds amidst bushy hills for a couple of hours, and then descended towards the sandy shore; and for the remainder of the way kept close to the beach. After fording one or two smaller streams issuing from the marshy pools that lay between us and the hills on our left, we had a little trouble in crossing a more considerable torrent that seems to bring down most of the drainage of the Angera Mountains lying behind Ape’s Hill. The horses’ feet sank deeply in the yielding sand of the bed, though we were able to wade across without difficulty. It was an anxious moment for us as we watched the baggage mules struggling and floundering, until the water rose very nearly to the precious packages of paper that contained the fruits of our work since we left Tangier. Several villages were seen on the slopes of the hills to our left, but during the entire day we passed only three or four small houses. Our day’s ride lay over the scene of the Spanish campaign in Marocco in the winter of 1859-60—a military event so completely eclipsed by the great wars that have since desolated many parts of Europe, as to be now almost forgotten. An intelligent and animated account of it was published by the late Mr. Hardman, who accompanied the Spanish army as correspondent of the _Times_ newspaper. The advance of O’Donnell, the Spanish commander-in-chief, was slow and cautious; but considering the natural difficulties, and his complete ignorance of the resources and designs of the enemy, any other course would have been chargeable with rashness. The Moors, although at the last they showed the utmost personal intrepidity, failed to display the slightest military capacity—even such as has been found among many savage tribes—failing to take advantage of natural difficulties, and exposing themselves in fruitless and desultory attacks when the Spanish force occupied strong positions. The most serious difficulty for the Spanish general arose from the necessity for moving his army along the narrow strip of shore, where for several miles the ground between this and the stony hills of the interior is partly covered by shallow lagoons, and the soft soil is intersected by streams. An active enemy knowing the ground might have inflicted heavy loss on the advancing force; but, contrary to all expectation, the Moors scarcely showed themselves at the critical moment, and the Spaniards had none but the natural obstacles to contend with. After crossing the pass over which the ordinary track runs to Tetuan, the Spaniards marched to the left, and established themselves in an entrenched camp near the mouth of the Tetuan river,