It is well known that all the rules which prevent unauthorised
persons from prying into the arcana of a fortress are strictly
enforced at Gibraltar; and on this account a naturalist wishing to
explore the rock should always apply for the previous permission
of the Governor. Not intending to remain more than a few hours,
we had declined the hospitable invitation of Sir W. F. Williams,
and not thought of obtaining an order to authorise our unrestricted
rambling over the rock. Towards evening Ball had started with
his tin box to examine the steep eastern face that looks towards
the Mediterranean. While scrambling about in search of plants, he
became aware that his movements were watched by two Irish soldiers,
both decidedly the worse for liquor, and as he returned towards
the path the word ‘spy’ was emphatically pronounced more than
once. Anticipating any further unpleasant remarks, he addressed them
some ordinary question, with a fair infusion of that national accent
that is unmistakable to the Hibernian ear. The effect was immediate:
the men were delighted to recognise a countryman; question and
answer rapidly succeeded, and the only difficulty was to resist
their pressing invitation to adjourn to a neighbouring wine-shop,
where the poor fellows’ remaining intelligence would have been
finally quenched in the compound of grape-juice and ardent spirits
that is sold at Gibraltar as Spanish wine—not much worse, perhaps,
than the mixture that is drunk at home by not a few persons boasting
a refined taste under the name of pale sherry.
It seems natural to ask whether it is or is not true, as one is often
assured, that correct plans of all the chief fortresses in Europe
are to be found in the War Office of each of the chief States;
for in such case the attempt to maintain secrecy as against the
ignorant curiosity of travellers seems to be a puerile occupation
for the military authorities in command.
The rock of Gibraltar and the sandy tract called the Neutral Ground
produce many rare and interesting-plants; but these are already
well known to botanists, being separately described in Kelaart’s
_Flora Calpensis_, and further illustrated in a work of first-rate
authority, Boissier’s _Voyage Botanique en Espagne_. The only
tree that seems to prosper thoroughly on this barren sun-baked
headland is the Chinese _Phytolacca arborea_, which was planted
some fifty or sixty years ago in the Alameda and elsewhere, many
of which have attained a great thickness. They remind one of the
stunted clustered columns of some mediæval churches, each of the
very numerous branches developing a projecting cylinder of woody
trunk covered with grey bark.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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