We lay for the greater part of the day within some two or three
miles of the shore, but the Atlantic rollers were too heavy to
allow a nearer approach, or permit the landing of cargo. This
happens too frequently to excite remark; and these great waves,
originating in the passage of cyclones in the mid-Atlantic, often
arrive so suddenly in the calmest weather as to create a serious
danger for the seaman. At the least it is prudent to keep up a
sufficient pressure of steam in the boiler to make it easy to gain
the offing on the shortest notice; and we heard of several cases
where the coast steamers had called in succession at all the Atlantic
ports of Marocco without being able to communicate with any one of
them, and cargo and passengers had been carried on to the Canary
Islands with the uncertain prospect of being landed on the return
voyage. Fogs offer another serious impediment to navigation on this
coast. During the summer the low country for a distance of eight or
ten miles from the shore is not rarely covered during the morning
with a thick mist that clears away before mid-day. At such times
ships dare not approach the sandy coasts, and, when the sky clears,
the scarcity of landmarks makes it extremely difficult for the seaman
to ascertain his exact position. As the same difficulty prevented us
from touching Rabat on our return voyage, we can add nothing to what
has been told by preceding travellers. Counting Sallee as a suburb of
the larger town, the population is estimated at 40,000, or more than
all the other Atlantic ports put together. The inhabitants are said
to suffer from three scourges—prolonged droughts, the invasion of
locusts, and, worst of all, the annual visits of the Sultan, whose
body-guard of several thousand soldiers has to be fed at their cost.
To the naturalist a stay of some days at Rabat might be of great
interest if he were able to accomplish a visit to the famous forest
of Mamora, which fills a large part of the space, some twenty miles
in width, between the mouth of the Bouregrag and the larger river
Sebou that carries to the sea the drainage of the high mountains near
Fez. The scene of most of the wonderful tales that circulate among
the people of North Marocco—adventures with lions, robbers, and
other wild animals—is laid in the forest of Mamora; but excepting
one solitary plant, brought thence by the Abbé Durand—a very
distinct species of _Celsia_—nothing is known of the fauna and
flora of the forests of this part of Marocco. These appear to cover
a considerable tract parallel to the Atlantic coast, and probably
consist mainly of the cork oak, which in any other country might
become a considerable source of profit. Eastward of the forest the
country south of the Oued Sebou is a marshy tract, breeding endemic
fevers that are said to extend to Sallee and Rabat.
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