Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry DavyTobin, J. J.
History
Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry Davy
Tobin, J. J.
Davy, Humphry, Sir, 1778-1829; Europe -- Description and travel
_31st._ We quitted Gröbming early this morning, where Sir Humphry
had to pay dear for very bad accommodations, the only instance of
exorbitant charges which we have as yet met with. To remonstrate
with the landlord, however, was in vain; nor did it appear to us
extraordinary that a being who had been rendered by illness unable
to move, but by the help of a broad wooden bowl, in which he sat and
shoved himself about, his legs being shrivelled up and quite useless
to him, should be churlish and discontented. From Gröbming we went
to Sternach, where we entered upon our former road, and from thence
through Mitterndorf to Aussee, where we arrived in the afternoon, just
as it began to rain hard.
_June 1st.-7th._ We have spent the whole of this week at Aussee, at a
very good country hotel near the poste, which is not, in this little
town, an inn, as is generally the case in this part of the country. Sir
Humphry has been fishing every day from eight in the morning till three
or four, about which time he usually dines, and our evenings have been
spent as usual. I generally accompany him in all his excursions, being
needed as an interpreter, and whilst he is fishing I take a sketch,
or ramble about the lakes and through the woods, thus fully enjoying
the beautiful alpine scenery with which we are surrounded. Our first
trip was to the Gründtl-See, an exceedingly beautiful lake, about four
miles from Aussee. The drive to it is chiefly along the banks of the
Traun, and though over a very bad road, which is only passable for a
one-horse cabriolet, is very picturesque, and the lake is seen peeping
out at intervals through dark green firs. The Traun, which is here only
a small mountain stream, but beautifully clear, rushes foaming out of
the lake at its southern end; a small covered bridge is thrown across
it at this spot, beneath which are sluice gates, by means of which the
exit of the waters can be partially hindered. Close to the bridge is a
cottage inhabited by the fisherman, who alone has the right of fishing
in the lake, which privilege he rents from the crown. A few zwanzigers
(an eightpenny coin) easily procured for Sir Humphry every possible
facility in his favourite pursuit from this man. He rowed us over to
the other end of the lake, where the Traun enters, which he told us
was the best spot for fishing. The view of the lake from the southern
end is finer than that from the northern extremity. In the centre of
the scene at the latter end, some beautiful white cliffs rise to a
great height, topped with bright green beech woods. On the right hand
appear rugged mountains, covered with dark forests of pine, whilst
those to the left are covered with woods of a lighter and more vivid
green. Beyond the lake, mountain rises over mountain, the nearer ones
finely wooded, whilst those in the distance are rocky and barren, and
surmounted by a white crest of snow.
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