The view consisted of the broad lake in front, and the deep forest which
stretched unbroken towards the east and the west. The water of the lake
was fresh, the great forest was primeval; this made the effect very
unlike that of the narrow salt-water sounds, and the chain of islands,
large and small, with their gardens and old fields. The South had
forgotten her beginnings; but here one could see what all the new world
had once been, here one could see traces of the first struggle for human
existence with the inert forces of nature. With other forces, too, for
Indians still lived here. They were few in number, harmless; but they
carried the mind back to the time of sudden alarms and the musket laid
ready to the hand; the days of the block-house and the guarded well, the
high stockade. The old planter as he walked about did not think of these
things. The rough forest was fit only for rough-living pioneers; the
Indians were but another species of nigger; the virgin air was thin and
raw,--he preferred something more thick, more civilized; the great
fresh-water sea was abominably tame, no one could possibly admire it;
Port aux Pins itself was simply hideous; it was a place composed
entirely of beginnings and mud, talk and ambition, the sort of place
which the Yankees produced wherever they went, and which they loved;
that in itself described it; how could a Southern gentleman like what
they loved?
And Port aux Pins was ugly. Its outlying quarters were still in the
freshly plucked state, deplumed, scarred, with roadways half laid out,
with shanties and wandering pigs, discarded tin cans and other refuse,
and everywhere stumps, stumps. Within the town there were one or two
streets where stood smart wooden houses with Mansard-roofs. But these
were elbowed by others much less smart, and they were hustled by the
scaffolding of the new mansions which were rising on all sides, and,
with republican freedom, taking whatever room they found convenient
during the process. Even those abodes which were completed as to their
exteriors had a look of not being fully furnished, a blank, wide-eyed,
unwinking expression across their façades which told of bare floors and
echoing spaces within. Always they had temporary fences. Often paths of
movable planks led up to the entrance. Day after day a building of some
sort was voyaging through Port aux Pins streets by means of a rope and
windlass, a horse, and men with boards; when it rained, the house
stopped and remained where it was, waiting for the mud to dry; meanwhile
the roadway was blocked. But nobody minded that. All these things, the
all-pervading beginnings, the jokes and slang, the smell of paint, and
always the breathless constant hurry, were hateful to the old Georgian.
It might have been said, perhaps, that between houses and a society
uncomfortable from age, falling to pieces from want of repairs, and
houses and a society uncomfortable from youth, unfurnished, and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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