The evolution of the scenery of these islands has been a long-continued
process, wherein the chief part has been played by the air, rain,
rivers, frost, and the other superficial agencies which are continually
at work in wearing down the surface of the land. Each different kind
of rock has yielded in its own fashion to the agents of destruction.
Those rocks which have offered least resistance have been worn down
into hollows and plains. Those of a more durable nature have been
left standing up as ridges, hills, or mountains. The composition of
the rocks has likewise governed the nature of the soils and the
distribution of vegetation. Chalk, for instance, forms long ridges
of grassy and bushless down. Sandy and gravelly tracts are marked by
heather and pine-trees. Volcanic rocks often rise into isolated crags
with verdant slopes below. Granite lifts itself into mountains and
rocky moorlands, with cliffs, corries and 'tors' and long trails of
naked scree.
For the purposes of the present Lecture, I will arrange the scenery of
this country in three leading types:
I. LOWLANDS.
II. UPLANDS.
III. HIGHLANDS.
These types are not always separable from each other by any definite
lines of boundary. The lowlands, for example, include ranges of
hills, and here and there gradually rise into uplands, which in turn
occasionally mount into lofty, rugged ground that may well be called
highland. Moreover, each type presents a number of local varieties,
dependent on geological structure. Thus the English lowlands differ in
many respects from the Scottish, and both from the Irish.
The arrangement now proposed, though not strictly scientific, is for
the proposed discussion convenient. We shall find, I think, that
each of the three main types has had a perceptible influence on our
literature, and not only so, but that even the local variations of each
type have left their impress on our literary history. To treat the
subject as fully as it deserves to be treated would require a course
of lectures. I can only attempt to illustrate it by selecting a few
instances from our poets where the relation that I wish to establish
seems to be most readily perceptible.
I. THE LOWLANDS OF BRITAIN. If a line be drawn across England from
the mouth of the Humber through the Midlands to the Bristol Channel,
it will divide the country into two sharply contrasted portions. To
the west of it, the older, harder, and therefore more durable rocks
rise into the high grounds of Wales, the Pennine Chain, and the
Lakes. To the east of it, on the other hand, the younger, softer,
and consequently more destructible, formations occupy the whole of
the territory, giving a characteristic lowland topography to the
districts that have been longest settled and cultivated, which include
the greater portion of what is most familiar and typical in English
landscape.
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