Two more conspicuous monuments of the sixteenth century are the fine
arches of Santa Maria and Fernan González. The former occupies the site
of the old tower of Santa Maria, where the town council at one time held
its sittings, and whence the body of Garcilaso de la Vega was hurled by
Pedro the Cruel; it was erected between 1536 and 1540 by the
municipality to conciliate Charles V., it is said, for the events of the
Comunidad. The arch is of three stories, and flanked by two rounded
towers. Over the arch are shown in niches six statues: those of Charles
V. and the Castilian worthies, the Cid, Fernan González, Nuño Rasura,
Lain Calvo, and Diego Porcellos. The upper part of the structure is
battlemented and adorned with statues of the Virgin, of the guardian
angel of the city, and of kings-at-arms supporting escutcheons. The
probability is that the entrance arch, and indeed the whole lower story,
is older by a century than the sculptured parts.
The arch of Fernan González was erected in 1592 to mark the site of the
castle of the redoubtable count. It is in the severe and imposing Doric
style of Herrera, and was evidently intended to receive a statue of the
hero, which an impoverished city is not likely to provide now. Burgos
has, however, done its best to keep green the memory of its illustrious
sons--an example set by so many continental towns, which we, in England,
seem loth to follow.
* * * * *
Of the castle, whose history was so long the history of Castile, little
that is ancient, nothing of the earliest structure, remains. The oldest
masonry is probably the gate, called the Puerta San Estéban, a brick
structure pierced with a horse-shoe arch. Popularly ascribed to the
period of the Moorish domination (which practically was never asserted
over Burgos), there can be little doubt that it dates from the
fourteenth century, and was the work of Mudejar masons, like so many
other Spanish buildings of that time. The old citadel of Castile is now
a heap of ruins, but it was strong enough as late as a century ago to
resist the assaults of Wellington. The next year, however (1813), the
French completely dismantled the fortifications and evacuated the city.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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