like another gum, and one wattle like another wattle, and you may come
back to the same spot without recognising it. And there is nothing
to eat in the bush, unless by chance you come across a kangaroo, or
an opossum, or a kangaroo-rat, and have the means to kill, and the
inclination to eat, such food. In old times this part of the country
was a favourite haunt of bushrangers, but want of food obliged them
to make frequent incursions into the more settled districts, and in
all the Australian colonies bushranging was, for this reason, easily
extinguished, where it had not the connivance of some of the settlers.
In New South Wales there must be a taste for preserving bushrangers,
for they still flourish there.
Or if you prefer a more settled country with farms and townships at
distant intervals, cross the broad deep Derwent by the steam-ferry
at Hobart Town, or, taking the other road, by a ferry three or four
miles higher up, of which a burly Yorkshireman has charge. The first
road winds round a high hill, and the second mounts it by a gradual
continuous ascent of three miles. The cleared land with its yellow
harvest or green, growing crops, and neat dead-wood fences and bushes
of luxuriant sweet-briar, and perhaps a garden and green English trees,
make a foreground to a forest of gum-trees and wattles, which has been
thinned but not cleared by fire, or by cutting a deep ring through the
bark of the trees, for the sake of the scanty brown grass underneath,
which their shade and growth make still more scanty. The bare white
trunks and boughs of these slaughtered but still standing trees stand
out grim and gaunt against the sky for many a year, till a pitying
gale or a fire at their roots brings them to earth, making weird
and ghostly dells such as Gustave Doré loves to draw, and too often
needlessly caricatures. The road descends again upon a township. There
is generally something dreary and repelling about the townships in all
the Australian colonies. They are like little bits cut out of a modern
English manufacturing town, and more than half killed in the process.
Bare square-built brick houses, without a scrap of flower-garden or
shrubbery, or any heed given to prettiness or neatness. Almost every
tree cut down for perhaps a mile round; dust and glare; an inordinate
number of public-houses, none of which care much to take you in unless
you are a large consumer of strong drinks. They look like places
intended only for business, and not for homes at all. And so you pass
through a township, if possible, without stopping, and this time three
miles on you turn aside across pleasant meadows to where, half hidden
by St. Helena weeping willows and by a thick high hedge of brilliant
yellow broom, stands a hospitable house. There is another house, the
prettiest of wooden cottages, or rather bungalows, where you would be
equally welcome; but you must leave it for another time, for if you
stopped everywhere where you were tempted, you would not travel far
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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