Or ride out of Hobart Town, where, perhaps, towards the end of the
summer scarcely any rain has fallen for two or three months, and
follow the new road to the Huon, over the side of Mount Wellington.
As you ascend, on a sudden it is cold and damp, and the road sloppy
with wet. The vegetation, too, has changed. The gums are ten times the
height of those down below, straight gigantic trunks, rising fifty to
a hundred feet without a branch. People speak of trunks seventy feet
in circumference twelve feet above the ground, but I have seen none
so large as that. I am afraid to guess at their height: the mightiest
European trees are dwarfs in comparison. Splitters are at work felling
them and clearing away the underwood, and the blows of the axe sound
and echo as if in a banqueting-hall of the gods. It is sacrilege to
fell them; but the gaps made open out a view far away over the tops of
the trees below to the mouths of the Derwent and the Huon, the jagged
coast-line, the distant capes and breakwater-like islands, conspicuous
amongst them, long, narrow Bruni, where Captain Cook landed nearly a
century ago; and over all the south wind blows cool and fresh from the
Southern Ocean, for there is nothing but sea and ice between you and
the Pole. Further on the road diminishes to a narrow track, cut amongst
the huge gums, and through an undergrowth of almost tropical vegetation
so dense that within twelve miles of Hobart Town it remained till a few
years ago almost unpenetrated. There is the sassafras, with straight,
tapering stem and branches, and fragrant myrtle-like leaves; and fern
trees, drooping their large graceful fronds from thick brown or red
stems, from six to thirty feet high; and bright purple nightshade
berries as big as cherries, and shrubs without end, and it seems
almost without names, except such barbarous misapplications of English
names as are in use to distinguish them, till the Heralds’ Office of
the Linnæan Society gives them title, rank, and lineage—all growing
in a dense mass, and baffling even the all-penetrating sun. Then the
track descends a little, and it all vanishes, and the ground is dry
as before, and two hours’ more riding brings you out suddenly upon
the bank of a fine river, the Huon, as wide here and deeper than the
Thames at Richmond. A short distance off along the bank are a roughly
made landing-stage and a ferry boat, and you must _cooé_ in the best
falsetto you can (if there is a lady of the party she will probably
do it better) till the ferryman hears you and comes, and with some
trouble persuades the horses into the boat, and punts you across, and
gives you directions how to thread your way through the scrub till you
emerge upon a corduroy road and upon the township of Franklin. It is
the chief township of the district, with some six hundred inhabitants,
exceptional in being the perfection of a country village, stretching
along the base of a hill two or three hundred feet high, and fringing
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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