Letters from England, 1846-1849Bancroft, Elizabeth Davis
History
Letters from England, 1846-1849
Bancroft, Elizabeth Davis
England -- Description and travel
We wished much to see the ruins of Dunolly. We passed the porter’s lodge
and found ourselves directly in the most picturesque grounds on the very
shore of the ocean and with the Western Islands lying before us. Mr.
Bancroft sent in his card, which brought out instantly the key to the old
castle, and in a few moments Capt. MacDougal and Mr. Phipps, a brother of
Lord Normanby’s, joined us. They pointed out the interesting points in
the landscape, the Castle of Ardtornish, the scene of Lord of the Isles,
etc., in addition to the fine old ruin we came to see. We lingered till
the lighthouses had begun to glow, and I was reminded very much of the
scenery at Wood’s Hole, which I used to enjoy so much, only that could
not boast the association with poetry and feudal romance. We then went
into the house, and found a charming domestic circle in full evening
dress with short sleeves, so that my gray travelling cloak and straw
bonnet were rather out of place. Here were Mrs. Phipps, and Miss
Campbell, her sister, daughters of Sir Colin Campbell, and to my great
delight, Captain MacDougal brought out the great brooch of Lorn, which
his ancestor won from Bruce and the story of which you will find in the
Lord of the Isles. It fastened the Scotch Plaid, and is larger than a
teacup. He described to me the reverential way in which Scott took it in
both hands when he showed it to him. The whole evening was pleasant and
the more so from being unexpected. . . . One little thing which adds
always to the charm of Scotch scenery is the dress of the peasantry. One
never sees the real Highland costume, but every shepherd has his plaid
slung over one shoulder, making the most graceful drapery. This, with
the universal Glengarry bonnet, is very pretty.
At Glasgow we intended to pay a visit of a day to the historian Alison,
but found letters announcing Governor Davis’s arrival in London with Mr.
Corcoran and immediately turned our faces homeward. We were to have
passed a week on our return amidst the lakes, and I protested against
going back to London without one look at least. So we stopped at Kendal
on Saturday, took a little carriage over to Windermere and Ambleside and
passed the whole evening with the poet and Mrs. Wordsworth, at their own
exquisite home on Rydal Mount. At ten o’clock we went from there to Miss
Martineau, who has built the prettiest of houses in this valley near to
Mrs. Arnold at Fox Howe. As we had only one day we made an arrangement
with Miss Martineau to go with us and be our guide, and set out the next
day at six o’clock and went over to Keswick to breakfast. From thence we
went to Borrowdale, by the side of Derwentwater, and afterward to
Ulswater and home by the fine pass of Kirkstone. On my return, I found
the Duke and Duchess of Argyle had been to see us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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