Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8Paxton, J. D. (John D.)
Religion
Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8
Paxton, J. D. (John D.)
Palestine -- Description and travel
We soon found ourselves passing over the highest part of the plain,
and beginning to descend. In short, we found that this little plain
was at the separating point of the head waters of the Bareda which
flows to Damascus, and those of the El-Kanne, which flows into the
Bokar through the Anti-Lebanon east of Zahle. We soon came to the
head branches of this last stream, which is formed of a set of most
noble springs, rising in the middle of the plain. There is quite
a cluster of them rising near each other, and throwing off enough
water to turn a mill; fine, pure, cool water. As is usual, it is
carried in channels through different parts of the plain. There is a
little cluster of trees, and the whole district over which the water
can be thrown is cultivated, and rich in verdure. A small village
stands just below, and we found some females at the spring engaged
in washing. For a small present they allowed us the use of their
fire to prepare our food; and again a good deal of interest was
excited to see the Franks eat.
The mountains continued very bare of trees, and shrubbery of every
kind. In the few places where water rose, there were a few trees,
all else was a barren, sunburnt surface. After passing the village,
which was poor in its appearance, the plain became more barren and
rough, and the cultivated district more and more narrow. At the
end of half an hour it terminated at a rough, narrow pass, nearly
due west, and directly through the Anti-Lebanon. We followed the
waters through this pass. The sides were steep and high, and the
rock thrown about in wild confusion. The dip of the rock was very
variable at different places. Along the stream were a few trees, and
we saw several large flocks of sheep and goats, under the care of
shepherds and their dogs.
After following the pass for an hour and a half, it bore to
the south-west; we left it, crossed a pretty high ridge to the
north-west, and entered the Bokar. On reaching the top, the plain
opened to view, and we had been led to expect that we should find
Baalbec at the point where we entered the plain. But no Baalbec was
to be seen. We found, to our no little discomfort, that we had about
two hours' ride northward, along a dry plain, under a burning sun,
before we could reach this far-famed ruin.
We passed several most extensive threshing-floors. Their threshing
instruments and mode of cleaning the grain, were the same as has
been already described. I might add, that in bringing their grain
to the floor, and in carrying away the straw, they use mules and
donkeys, and at times the camel. I saw, in no instance, the use
of a wheel-carriage. The only wheeled-carriages that I have seen
in Syria were those for cannon at Zahle, and ten or fifteen carts
which I saw at one time passing a street in Damascus. These carts
were of a coarse, strong kind, belonging to the Pasha, and were then
employed in carrying materials for the castle which he was repairing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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