Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
27_th_.—The cart could not be got till the day before yesterday, and
yesterday Mrs. D— arrived in it with two new Irish maids; it saved her
3_l._, and I must have paid equally. The horses were very tired, having
been hard at work carrying Malays all the week to Constantia and back, on
a pilgrimage to the tomb of a Mussulman saint; so to-day they rest, and
to-morrow I go to Villiersdorp. Choslullah has been appointed driver of
a post-cart; he tried hard to be allowed to pay a _remplaçant_, and to
fetch ‘his missis’, but was refused leave; and so a smaller and blacker
Malay has come, whom Choslullah threatened to curse heavily if he failed
to take great care of ‘my missis’ and be a ‘good boy’. Ramadan begins on
Sunday, and my poor driver can’t even prepare for it by a good feast, as
no fowls are to be had here just now, and he can’t eat profanely-killed
meat. Some pious Christian has tried to burn a Mussulman martyr’s tomb
at Eerste River, and there were fears the Malays might indulge in a
little revenge; but they keep quiet. I am to go with my driver to eat
some of the feast (of Bairam, is it not?) at his priest’s when Ramadan
ends, if I am in Capetown, and also am asked to a wedding at a relation
of Choslullah’s. It was quite a pleasure to hear the kindly Mussulman
talk, after these silent Hottentots. The Malays have such agreeable
manners; so civil, without the least cringing or Indian obsequiousness.
I dare say they can be very ‘insolent’ on provocation; but I have always
found among them manners like old-fashioned French ones, but quieter; and
they have an affectionate way of saying ‘_my_ missis’ when they know one,
which is very nice to hear. It is getting quite chilly here already;
_cold_ night and morning; and I shall be glad to descend off this plateau
into the warmer regions of Worcester, &c. I have just bought _eight_
splendid ostrich feathers for 1_l._ of my old Togthandler friend. In
England they would cost from eighteen to twenty-five shillings each. I
have got a reebok and a klipspringer skin for you; the latter makes a
saddle-cloth which defies sore backs; they were given me by Klein and a
farmer at Palmiet River. The flesh was poor stuff, white and papery.
The Hottentots can’t ‘bray’ the skins as the Caffres do; and the woman
who did mine asked me for a trifle beforehand, and got so drunk that she
let them dry halfway in the process, consequently they don’t look so
well.
Worcester, Sunday, March 2d.
Oh, such a journey! Such country! Pearly mountains and deep blue sky,
and an impassable pass to walk down, and baboons, and secretary birds,
and tortoises! I couldn’t sleep for it all last night, tired as I was
with the unutterably bad road, or track rather.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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