Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
On Monday morning, I walked off early to the old _Drosdy_ (Landdrost’s
house), found an old gentleman, who turned out to be the owner, and who
asked me my name and all the rest of the Dutch ‘litanei’ of questions,
and showed me the pretty old Dutch garden and the house—a very handsome
one. I walked back to breakfast, and thought Worcester the prettiest
place I had ever seen. We then started for Paarl, and drove through
‘Bain’s Kloof’, a splendid mountain-pass, four hours’ long, constant
driving. It was glorious, but more like what one had seen in pictures—a
deep, narrow gorge, almost dark in places, and, to my mind, lacked the
_beauty_ of the yesterday’s drive, though it is, perhaps, grander; but
the view which bursts on one at the top, and the descent, winding down
the open mountain-side, is too fine to describe. Table Mountain, like a
giant’s stronghold, seen far distant, with an immense plain, half
fertile, half white sand; to the left, Wagenmaker’s Vley; and further on,
the Paarl lying scattered on the slope of a mountain topped with two
_domes_, just the shape of the cup which Lais (wasn’t it?) presented to
the temple of Venus, moulded on her breast. The horses were tired, so we
stopped at Waggon-maker’s Valley (or Wellington, as the English try to
get it called), and found ourselves in a true Flemish village, and under
the roof of a jolly Dutch hostess, who gave us divine coffee and
bread-and-butter, which seemed ambrosia after being deprived of those
luxuries for almost three months. Also new milk in abundance, besides
fruit of all kinds in vast heaps, and pomegranates off the tree. I asked
her to buy me a few to take in the cart, and got a ‘muid’, the third of a
sack, for a shilling, with a bill, ‘U bekomt 1 muid 28 granaeten dat
Kostet 1_s._’ The old lady would walk out with me and take me into the
shops, to show the ‘vrow uit Engelland’ to her friends. It was a lovely
place, intensely hot, all glowing with sunshine. Then the sun went down,
and the high mountains behind us were precisely the colour of a Venice
ruby glass—really, truly, and literally;—not purple, not crimson, but
glowing ruby-red—and the quince-hedges and orange-trees below looked
_intensely_ green, and the houses snow-white. It was a
transfiguration—no less.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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