Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900Waddington, Mary King
History
Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900
Waddington, Mary King
Europe -- Social life and customs
I left my cloak in the carriage, and didn't feel chilly, but some of the
women were uncomfortable, and had little lace and fur tippets. We filed
into the church (which is small), and into the Diplomatic Tribune, and
settled ourselves quite easily--there was plenty of room. The effect
inside was dazzling: tapers, flowers, pictures, jewels, quantities of
women already seated, all in the Kakoshnik, and a general impression of
red and gold in their costumes. All the Empress's ladies wear red velvet
trains, embroidered in gold. People seemed to be coming in all the time.
Deputations from the provinces, officials of Moscow, officers,
chamberlains, a moving mass of colour. The costume of the Popes was
gorgeous--cloth of gold with very high jewelled mitres.
We waited some time before the ceremony began, but there was so much to
see that we didn't mind, and from time to time one of the officials came
and stood with us a little, explaining who all the people were. The
whole church was hung with red, and red carpets everywhere. Just in the
middle there was a high estrade, covered with red velvet, and a great
gold baldaquin with Imperial eagles embroidered on it. It was all
surrounded by a gold balustrade, and on it were the two thrones. A
little lower on the same estrade were the places of the Princes of the
family, and the Foreign Princes.
A little before 9 the Imperial family began to arrive. Almost all the
Grand Duchesses in trains of drap d'argent, bordered with sable, and
magnificent jewels. Then there was a great sound of trumpets, and
cheering outside (those curious, suppressed Russian cheers), and they
told us the Emperor and Empress were coming. They were preceded by an
officer of the Chevalier-Gardes, with sabre-a-nu. The Emperor was in
full uniform, with the blue ribbon of St. Andre. The Empress quite
simple in white and silver, the Imperial eagles embroidered on the
front of her dress; no diadem, no veil, nor jewels; her train carried by
4 pages, her hair quite simply done--she looked so young, quite like a
school-girl. Then followed a glittering suite of Princes, officers,
etc.
The service was very long, the chanting quite fine; the men have
beautiful, deep voices--I cared less for the intoning, they all end on
such a peculiar high note. I didn't like the looks of the Popes
either--the long beards worried me. Of course the real interest was when
the Emperor took the crown from the hands of the Pope (kneeling before
him) and put it on his own head. He looked a magnificent figure,
towering over everybody, as he stood there in his Imperial robes, cloth
of gold lined with ermine, and a splendid jewelled collar. The crown
looked high and heavy--made entirely of jewels.
His two brothers, Grand Dukes Wladimir and Alexis, put on his robes. The
Grand Duke Wladimir always stands close behind his brother. He has a
stern, keen face. He would be the Regent if anything should happen to
the Emperor, and I think his would be an iron rule.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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