Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
Feather’s Inn, Chester, Monday evening.--I have, my dear friend, the
singular pleasure of writing and addressing to you another leaf of my
journal from a city which was founded, according to the directory which
lies before me, “in the year, 917 B.C., at which time Jehosaphat and
Ahab governed Israel and Judah,”--the only walled and fortified city in
England of which the walls are yet in a state of preservation. The city
was rebuilt by Julius Cæsar, and was an important Roman station; and
there yet remain many vestiges of Roman occupancy; a hypocaust is still
to be seen under the hotel in which I am now staying,--so it is said,
for I have not yet seen it, having arrived here after dark. But I expect
to be very much interested in this queer old town, for which I owe
thanks to Dr. Torrey, since it was his recommendation that induced me to
come here. I have scampered about the streets this evening, bought some
lithographic views, studied the directory, and am prepared for a busy
day between Chester and Eaton Hall, should I live till to-morrow. But
it is time I should tell you briefly how I got here. This morning soon
after breakfast I walked out to the Botanic Garden, delivered a note of
introduction to Shepherd,[37] who received me rather politely, inquired
after Dr. Torrey, and showed me through the greenhouses. The
establishment is not where it was when Dr. T. was here, but was removed
further out of town, two or three years ago. The garden occupies eleven
acres; the site is well chosen; but being newly planted there is of
course little to see. The hothouses are very well, but not extensive;
the collections not particularly interesting, except for some old plants
that have belonged to the establishment many years.
I took my cloak and umbrella (necessary articles these!), and at 3 P.M.
crossed the Mersey in a small uncomfortable black steamboat, about as
much inferior to our Hoboken or Brooklyn ferry-boats as a Barnegat
wood-schooner is to a packet-ship; and at Birkenhead took an outside
seat for Chester (ten miles), though it rained often and blew hard and
cold; had a good view of the country until about five miles from
Chester, when it grew dark; saw little villages, farm-houses and
cottages, cows, etc., all of which is much more interesting to me than
the smoky town of Liverpool. I have seen several little things that are
new to me. Let us see what I can recollect at the moment. Hedges of
holly--those I am pleased with, particularly when sheared and clipped.
The prettiest fence is a stone wall over-topped with a close hedge of
holly. Ivy in profusion covering great walls, trees, etc., etc.,--we
have nothing to compare with it; a flock of rooks,--very like crows,
but larger; an English stagecoach,--more of that anon; a coach and four
with postilions,--fine. But I must stop here.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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