Entering the Fort by the Jeypore Gate, and studiously refraining from
opening his umbrella, the Englishman found shadow and coolth, took off
his hat to the tun-bellied, trunk-nosed God of Good-Luck who had been
very kind to him in his wanderings, and sat down near half-a-dozen of
the Maharaja’s guns bearing the mark, “A. Broome, Cossipore, 1857,” or
“G. Hutchinson, Cossipore, 1838.” Now rock and masonry are so curiously
blended in this great pile that he who walks through it loses sense of
being among buildings. It is as though he walked through
mountain-gorges. The stone-paved, inclined planes, and the tunnel-like
passages driven under a hundred feet height of buildings, increase this
impression. In many places the wall and rock runs up unbroken by any
window for forty feet.
It would be a week’s work to pick out even roughly the names of the dead
who have added to the buildings, or to describe the bewildering
multiplicity of courts and ranges of rooms; and, in the end, the result
would be as satisfactory as an attempt to describe a night-mare. It is
said that the rock on which the Fort stands is four miles in circuit,
but no man yet has dared to estimate the size of the city that they
call the Palace, or the mileage of its ways. Ever since Ras Joda, four
hundred years ago, listened to the voice of a _Fogi_ and leaving Mundore
built his eyrie on the “Bird’s Nest,” as the Hill of Strife was called,
the Palaces have grown and thickened. Even to-day the builders are still
at work. Takht Singh, the present ruler’s predecessor, built royally. An
incomplete bastion and a Hall of Flowers are among the works of his
pleasure. Hidden away behind a mighty wing of carved red sandstone, lie
rooms set apart for Viceroys, Durbar Halls, and dinner-rooms without
end. A gentle gloom covers the evidences of the catholic taste of the
State in articles of “bigotry and virtue”; but there is enough light to
show the _raison d’etre_ of the men who wait in the dak-bungalow. And,
after all, what is the use of Royalty in these days if a man may not
take delight in the pride of the eye? Kumbha Rana, the great man of
Chitor, fought like a Rajput, but he had an instinct which made him
build the Tower of Victory at, who knows, what cost of money and life.
The fighting-instinct thrown back upon itself, must have some sort of
outlet; and a merciful Providence wisely ordains that the Kings of the
East in the nineteenth century shall take pleasure in “shopping” on an
imperial scale. Dresden China snuff-boxes, mechanical engines,
electro-plated fish-slicers, musical boxes, and gilt, blownglass,
Christmas-Tree balls do not go well with the splendours of a Palace that
might have been built by Titans and coloured by the morning sun. But
there are excuses to be made for Kings who have no work to do--at least
such work as their fathers understood best.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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