Life and Letters of Thomas Henry Huxley — Volume 1Huxley, Thomas Henry
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Life and Letters of Thomas Henry Huxley — Volume 1
Huxley, Thomas Henry
Huxley, Thomas Henry, 1825-1895; Naturalists -- England -- Biography
By July 12, midwinter of course in the southern hemisphere, they had
rounded the Horn, and Huxley writes from that most desolate of British
possessions, the Falkland Islands:--]
I have great hopes of being able to send a letter to you, via
California, even from this remote corner of the world. It is the Ultima
Thule and no mistake. Fancy two good-sized islands with undulated
surface and sometimes elevated hills, but without tree or bush as tall
as a man. When we arrived the 8th inst. the barren uniformity was
rendered still more obvious by the deep coating of snow which enveloped
everything. How can I describe to you "Stanley," the sole town,
metropolis, and seat of government? It consists of a lot of black, low,
weatherboard houses scattered along the hillsides which rise round the
harbour. One barnlike place is Government House, another the pensioners'
barracks, rendered imposing by four field-pieces in front; others
smaller are the residences of the colonel, surgeon, etc. In one
particularly black and unpromising-looking house lives a Mrs. Sulivan,
the wife of Captain Sulivan, who surveyed these islands, and has settled
out here. (Captain Sulivan, who sailed with Darwin in the "Beagle," and
served with great distinction in command of the southern division of the
fleet in the battle of Obligado (Plate River), had surveyed the Falkland
Islands many years before his temporary settlement there. During the
Crimean War he was surveying officer to the Baltic fleet, and afterwards
naval adviser to the Board of Trade. He was afterwards Admiral and
K.C.B.) I asked myself if I could have had the heart to bring you to
such a desolate place, and myself said "No." However, I believe she is
very happy with her children. Sulivan is a fine energetic man, so I
suppose if she loves him, well and good, and fancies (is she not a silly
woman?) that she has her reward. Mrs. Stanley has gone to stay with them
while the ship remains here, and I think I shall go and look them up
under pretence of making a call. They say that the present winter is far
more savage than the generality of Falkland Island winters, and it had
need be, for I never felt anything so bitterly cold in my life. The
thermometer has been down below 22, and shallow parts of the harbour
even have frozen. Nothing to be done ashore. My rifle lies idle in its
case; no chance of a shot at a bull, and one has to go away 20 miles to
get hold even of the upland geese and rabbits. The only thing to be done
is to eat, eat, eat, and the cold assists one wonderfully in that
operation. You consume a pound or so of beefsteaks at breakfast and then
walk the deck for an appetite at dinner, when you take another pound or
two of beef or a goose, or some such trifle. By four o'clock it is dark
night, and as it is too cold to read the only thing to be done is to
vanish under blankets as soon as possible and take twelve or fourteen
hours' sleep.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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