Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
The coast line between Baram and Brunei is very pretty. As we approach
the capital, the interminable jungle gives way to grassy hills, with
a park-like distribution of timber. Curling wreaths of smoke rising
from the shaded valleys, told us that the inhabitants were numerous. In
the far distance we could see the great mountain of Molu, the loftiest
known, except Kina Balu: the latter was visible to-day, although about
120 miles off; it looked like a huge table mountain rising from the
sea, all intervening ground being lost in the distance.
We reached Labuan the day before the Queen’s birthday, in time to be
present at the official dinner given by Governor Scott. I shall take
another opportunity to notice this island.
We heard on our arrival that Mr. Low, the Colonial treasurer, had made
an attempt to reach the summit of Kina Balu. It was generally said
he had failed; but many years after, I was able to prove that he had
reached to within a few hundred feet of the very highest peaks.
After some days’ stay to coal, we started for the capital, which lies
about thirty-three miles to the S.S.W. The bay opposite Labuan is one
of the most striking on the coast. The mountains commence within a few
miles of the shore, and tower in successive ranges to Brayong, and Si
Guntang, about 8,000 feet in height.
By naval men this is called Thunder-and-Lightning Bay, and it well
deserves the name, as scarcely a day passes without some heavy squall
sweeping down from the mountains, while the brightest lightning
flashes, and the thunder rolls and re-echoes among the hills.
The entrance to the inner bay, into which so many rivers pour their
waters, is five fathoms, and with a little care as to the known marks,
of easy entrance. To the right is the low island of Muara, reputed
deadly; but I have stayed there many times, and none of my people
suffered. Keeping along the southern shore of the island, the channel
is reached, and as we approach the true entrance of the Brunei river
the scenery becomes lovely.
To the right is the island of Iñgaran, with its remains of Spanish
batteries; to the left, picturesque Chermin. No ship of any size can
enter the river, as eight feet at low water, and fourteen at high, is
what the bar affords, which is also rendered more difficult by a long
artificial dam of stones thrown across the stream in former times to
prevent the approach of hostile squadrons. The water, however, has
forced an angular passage to the right, through which vessels are
obliged to pass. It is one of the worst rivers for commercial purposes
in Borneo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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